RECIPES

Versatile vegetable: Winter butternut squash takes on many aspects, flavors in recipes

Roasted Butternut Squash With Smoky-Spicy Butter (Arkansas Democrat-Gazette/Kelly Brant)
Roasted Butternut Squash With Smoky-Spicy Butter (Arkansas Democrat-Gazette/Kelly Brant)


Butternut squash is considered by many to be the most versatile winter squash. It has good texture that isn't plagued by wateriness like some winter squash, its straight neck and bulbous bottom give it a high flesh-to-seeds ratio and it has an especially pleasing flavor that is mildly pumpkin-y, kind of buttery and nutty and just sweet enough.

It happens to be our favorite winter squash.

Its smooth skin and mostly uniform shape mean as far as winter squash goes, it's easy to peel. But do you really need to peel butternut squash before cooking and eating? Some cooks say yes and others say no.

Some find the caramelized, slightly chewy skin of roasted butternut squash quite tasty.

For us it depends on the recipe.

One solution to the peel or not to peel dilemma is to buy already prepped squash at the grocery store. It costs a bit more, but some cooks will find the extra cost to be worth not having to spend the effort.

Another is to cook the squash and peel it after. The cook-then-peel method is great for mashes and purees because it doesn't require the addition of liquid.

Heat oven to 400 to 425 degrees. Use a large fork or long skewer to pierce a few holes in the squash. Place whole squash on a rimmed baking sheet and roast for 1 hour to 1 ½ hours or until tender.

Alternately, cut the squash in half lengthwise, scoop out seeds. Arrange squash on a baking sheet, cut side up, drizzle with a little oil and season with salt and pepper. Flip squash over so it is cut side down and roast 30 to 45 minutes or until tender.

Knowing how much squash to buy for a recipe can be a tricky affair. Some recipes call for vague subjective sizes — small, medium, large — while others list weights and yet others call for cups or worst of all, simply one squash, no size or weight given.

Generally speaking, at least according to our definitions, butternut squashes can be categorized as follows:

Small: 1 to 1 ½ pounds

Medium: 1 ½ to 3 pounds

Large: 3 pounds or more

In our kitchen, using a vegetable peeler, a chef's knife and a spoon to peel and seed the squash, we found a 3-pound squash will yield a little more than 2 pounds of usable flesh. One cup of cubed squash weighs about 5 ounces. Four cups of squash cut into 1-inch dice weighs about 1 ¼ pounds. (Your results may vary somewhat depending on how much flesh you remove when you peel the squash and how deep you scrape when removing the seeds and stringy bits.)

In her book "In My Kitchen: A Collection of Favorite Vegetarian Recipes," Deborah Madison calls the butter used in this recipe Smoky-Spicy Butter for Three Orange Vegetables and is serving it with winter squash, sweet potatoes and carrots. Swirl it into mashes and purees, float it on soups, dollop it onto baked sweet potatoes.

For this presentation we halve a whole butternut squash, coat it in olive oil and season with salt and pepper and then roast it until tender. Finally, the roasted squash gets a pat of Madison's flavor-packed butter. If the squash are small, say less than 1 ½ pounds, each diner gets their own half. If they're larger, each half is cut in half making quarters.

Roasted Butternut Squash With Smoky-Spicy Butter

  • For the butter:
  • 2 tablespoons sliced green onion, white and green parts
  • 2 plump cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
  • 2 teaspoons paprika (see note)
  • 2 teaspoons smoked paprika
  • 1/8 to ¼ teaspoon ground red cayenne pepper (see note)
  • 2 teaspoons ground cumin
  • ½ teaspoon ground coriander
  • 2 tablespoons chopped parsley and/or cilantro
  • ¼ teaspoon salt (omit if using salted butter)
  • Grated zest and juice of 1 lime
  • ½ cup butter, at room temperature or slightly softened
  • For the squash:
  • 1 large (3 pounds) or 2 small (1 to 1 ½ pounds) butternut squash
  • Olive oil

Heat oven to 425 degrees. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.

Using a mortar and pestle, pound the green onion, garlic, both paprikas, cayenne (if using), cumin, coriander, parsley, salt (if using), lime zest and juice to form a rough paste. (If you don't have a mortar and pestle, pulse the ingredients together in a blender or food processor or mince to a paste using a chef's knife.) Cut the softened butter into chunks and place it in a medium bowl. Add the onion-spice mixture and mix until thoroughly blended. Transfer butter to a sheet of wax paper and shape into a cylinder. Chill while you prepare the squash. (Makes about ½ cup. Leftover butter will keep refrigerated for up to a week or frozen for 1 month.)

Cut the squash in half lengthwise and using a spoon, remove the seeds and stringy fibers from the bulb end. Place the squash on the prepared baking sheet, cut side up. Drizzle with olive oil and season lightly with salt and pepper. Turn each piece over so the cut sides are down. Roast 30 to 45 minutes or until squash is very tender.

If the squash are small (less than 1 ½ pounds) each diner gets a half. If you're serving one large squash, cut each half in half to make four quarters. Top each serving with a pat of the spiced butter and serve.

Makes 4 servings.

Note: We used sweet paprika and added cayenne for heat. If using hot paprika, reduce or omit the cayenne.

Butter recipe from "In My Kitchen: A Collection of Favorite Vegetarian Recipes" by Deborah Madison

  photo  Butternut, Cardamom and Tahini Soup (Arkansas Democrat-Gazette/Kelly Brant)  This vegan soup gets its vibrant color from butternut squash and turmeric while a few spoonfuls of tahini swirled in just before serving add richness.

Butternut, Cardamom and Tahini Soup

  • Olive oil
  • 1 yellow onion, coarsely chopped
  • 4 cups (1-inch) cubed peeled, seeded butternut squash (about 1 pound 5 ounces) OR 1 (2 pound) butternut squash, peeled, seeded and cut into 1-inch cubes
  • 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
  • 1 teaspoon ground cumin
  • ¼ teaspoon ground cardamom
  • 1 teaspoon garlic powder
  • Salt and ground black pepper
  • Boiling water
  • 2 heaping tablespoons tahini, plus more to taste
  • Lemon juice, to taste
  • Lemon slices, optional garnish
  • Red pepper flakes, optional garnish

In a large saucepan or Dutch oven, add enough olive oil to coat and place over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until fragrant. Add the squash, turmeric, cumin, cardamom, garlic and a generous pinch of salt and pepper. Cook, stirring, for 5 to 6 minutes.

Pour in enough boiling water to just cover the squash. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer, covered, for 35 to 40 minutes or until squash is tender.

Puree the soup using an immersion blender, or in batches using a traditional blender, until almost smooth adding more water to achieve desired consistency. Stir in the tahini and a generous squeeze of lemon juice and stir well. Taste and add more salt, pepper, tahini or lemon juice as needed.

Serve garnished with lemon slice and sprinkle of red pepper, if desired.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Recipe adapted from "Persiana Everyday" by Sabrina Ghayour

  photo  Poblanos Stuffed With Rice, Butternut Squash and Monterey Jack (Arkansas Democrat-Gazette/Kelly Brant)  This recipe for stuffed peppers is so good, it won over our resident winter squash skeptic. It calls for roasting a small butternut squash, but if you happen to have about a cup of leftover squash, that'll work, too, and save you a little time.

The recipe makes enough filling for four large peppers or six smaller ones.

Poblanos Stuffed With Rice, Butternut Squash and Monterey Jack

  • 1 small (1 to 1 ½ pounds) butternut squash OR about 1 cup cooked mashed butternut squash
  • Olive oil
  • Salt and ground black pepper, to taste
  • Cumin, to taste
  • Ground cinnamon, to taste
  • ½ cup uncooked long-grain rice
  • 3 green onions, white and green parts, finely chopped
  • 1 to 2 cloves garlic minced OR 1 tablespoon garlic paste
  • 8 ounces shredded Monterey Jack cheese, divided use
  • ¼ cup cilantro leaves, finely chopped, plus more for garnish
  • 1 lime, zested and juiced
  • 4 to 6 poblano peppers
  • Salsa verde, for serving

Heat oven to 425 degrees. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.

Cut the squash in half lengthwise and using a spoon, remove the seeds and stringy fibers from the bulb end. Place the squash on the prepared baking sheet, cut side up. Drizzle with olive oil and season lightly with salt, pepper cumin and cinnamon. Turn each piece over so the cut sides are down. Roast 30 to 45 minutes or until squash is very tender.

Meanwhile, cook the rice with a pinch of salt according to package instructions.

When the rice is done, transfer it to a large bowl and add the green onions, garlic, three-quarters of the cheese, the chopped cilantro, lime zest and juice. When the squash is done, using a large spoon, scrape the flesh from the skins adding it to the bowl with the rice. Mix well to combine and then taste and season with salt, pepper, cumin and/or cinnamon as needed. Set aside.

Cut the top off each pepper and gently remove the core, seeds and membranes. Reserve tops.

Fill each pepper cavity with rice mixture, making sure there are no air pockets. Replace the pepper tops and secure with wooden picks.

Arrange peppers on the parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake 25 minutes or until peppers are quite tender. Sprinkle with the remaining cheese and return peppers to the oven until cheese melts, about 5 minutes.

Serve with a sprinkle with additional cilantro, if desired and a drizzle of salsa verde.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

  photo  Brown Butter Orzo With Butternut Squash (Arkansas Democrat-Gazette/Kelly Brant)  This one-pot orzo is so rich and creamy, we wouldn't be surprised if someone mistook it for risotto. An optional dollop of ricotta makes it even more creamy while a squeeze of lemon keeps the flavors bright.

Brown Butter Orzo With Butternut Squash

  • 4 tablespoons butter
  • ¾ cup thinly sliced shallots (2 to 3) OR onion OR leeks (white and tender green parts only)
  • 3 cups peeled and seeded 3/4-inch cubed butternut squash (about 1 pound flesh)
  • 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh sage leaves, OR 2 teaspoons chopped rosemary, marjoram or oregano, plus more for serving
  • Fine salt and ground ground black pepper
  • ¼ teaspoon red-pepper flakes, plus more for serving
  • 3 cups low-sodium or unsalted vegetable stock or chicken stock
  • 1 ½ cups uncooked orzo
  • 1 lemon, zested and halved
  • 2 tablespoons grated parmesan, plus more for serving
  • ½ cup whole-milk ricotta (optional)

In a medium Dutch oven, or a large (12-inch) skillet, melt butter over medium heat. Cook, swirling occasionally, until the foam subsides, the milk solids turn golden brown and it smells nutty and toasty, 3 to 4 minutes. (Watch carefully to see that it doesn't burn.) Stir in shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly softened, about 2 minutes. Add squash, sage (or other herb), a large pinch of salt, ¼ teaspoon black pepper and ¼ teaspoon red-pepper flakes, and cook until squash is golden at the edges and begins to soften, 12 to 17 minutes.

Add stock and bring to a simmer. Stir in orzo, lemon zest and the 1 teaspoon salt (skip this if using salted stock). Cover the pan and simmer over medium-low heat until orzo is just tender and most of the liquid is absorbed, 14 to 18 minutes, stirring once or twice. If the pan dries out before the orzo and squash are tender, add a splash or two of water.

Remove pan from heat and stir in parmesan. Taste and add more salt if needed, and a squeeze of lemon juice. Dollop with ricotta if using, and sprinkle with more grated parmesan and black pepper just before serving, garnishing the top with more red-pepper flakes and sage or other herb.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Recipe adapted from The New York Times

  photo  Butternut Squash “Steaks” With Honey-Nut Topping (Arkansas Democrat-Gazette/Kelly Brant)  We loved the crunchy, sweet-and-spicy, cool-and-creamy combination of flavors in this dish.

Butternut Squash "Steaks" With Honey-Nut Topping

  • For the "steaks":
  • ¼ cup olive oil, divided use
  • 2 teaspoons sugar
  • 2 teaspoons ground cumin
  • 1 teaspoon garlic powder
  • ½ teaspoon Aleppo pepper flakes
  • ½ teaspoon ground coriander
  • ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • Salt and ground black pepper
  • 2 medium butternut squash (thick, long straight necks work best)
  • For the sauce:
  • ½ cup plain Greek-style yogurt
  • 1 tablespoon lemon juice
  • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint
  • 1 clove garlic, minced
  • For serving:
  • 2 to 4 tablespoons chopped pistachios
  • 1 tablespoon sesame seeds, toasted
  • Honey, for drizzling
  • Fresh mint leaves, for garnish
  • Lime wedges, for serving

Adjust oven rack to center position and heat oven to 450 degrees.

In a small bowl, combine 3 tablespoons of the olive oil with the sugar, cumin, garlic powder, Aleppo pepper, coriander, cinnamon and 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon ground black pepper. Mix well; set aside.

Working with one squash at a time, cut the squash crosswise into 2 pieces at the base of the neck; reserve the bulb for another use. (Cut squash will keep, well wrapped, in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.) Using a sharp knife or heavy-duty vegetable peeler, remove the skin from each neck, then carefully cut each neck in half lengthwise. From each half, cut a 3/4-inch thick slab. Repeat with the remaining squash. You should have 4 slabs; reserve the remaining neck flesh for another use. (It, too, will keep well wrapped in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.)

Place the slabs (steaks) on a wire rack set in a rimmed baking sheet and brush evenly with the spice mixture. Flip steaks and brush the other side with the spice mixture. Roast until nearly tender (a knife or skewer should meet some resistance), 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from oven.

Heat the remaining tablespoon of oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until very hot. Carefully add as many of the steaks that will comfortably fit and cook without moving until well-browned and crisp on the first side, about 3 minutes. Flip steaks and continue cooking until browned and crisp on the second side, about 3 minutes. Transfer slabs to a serving platter. Repeat with remaining steaks, if necessary.

For the sauce: In a small bowl stir together the yogurt, lemon juice, mint and garlic. Season to taste with salt and ground black pepper.

To serve, sprinkle the steaks with the pistachios and sesame seeds. Drizzle a little honey over the steaks. Sprinkle with mint and serve with the yogurt sauce and lime wedges.

Makes 4 servings.

Recipe from "More Mediterranean: 225+ New Plant-Forward Recipes" from America's Test Kitchen


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