Light rain and near freezing temperatures greeted 15 eager paddlers gathered at the low-water bridge in Ponca for the group's 20th annual Winter Float Trip.
The water level at the bridge was ideal for the trip's start Feb. 15. Paddlers hailed from Fayetteville and around the Ozarks.
Beauty abounds on Buffalo
Buffalo National River is among the top canoeing and kayaking streams in the Ozarks and the nation. Most of the river is suitable for novice paddlers. Outfitters operate on all sections of the river with boat rentals and shuttle service.
Camping is available at National Park Service campgrounds along the river and on gravel bars. Cabins are available for rent in the Buffalo River area.
Glass containers are prohibited on the river. Ice chests must have a secure lid. Beverages consumed on the river must be in a coozy that prevents the container from sinking to the bottom. A trash bag is required in each boat.
Be safe, watch the weather and wear a life jacket.
Source: Buffalo National River, staff report
Some looked up at the sandstone bluffs and some scanned downstream as the water flowed under their feet. Others looked in the direction of Ponca for the shuttle to start the annual float-trip adventure.
For two decades, most in this group have floated in five states on eight different rivers as far flung as the Rio Grande. The group decided to keep the 2019 float close and familiar.
The plan included camping at Kyle's Landing Friday through Sunday night. Saturday's trip was 11 miles from Ponca back down to Kyle's Landing. Sunday was a day off. Monday's float was 11 miles to Ozark campground.
Kris Jorgensen, owner of Lost Valley Canoe in Ponca, jokingly said our idea was crazy because of the cold weather, but she knew the experienced group could handle a midwinter float.
After breakfast burritos with eggs, bacon and veggies on Saturday morning, boats and gear were readied for the trip from Kyle's Landing upstream to Ponca. Precipitation from low clouds and fog overnight created an ice line visible at Mount Sherman and the surrounding bluffs. Half-way up the 3-mile- long Kyle's Landing road to Arkansas 74, the landscape was encased in ice. Ice crystals covered everything, in contrast to the green moss covering large rock formations on the roadside.
The Buffalo River became the first national river in the United States on March 1, 1972. It runs for 153 miles from its headwaters in the Boston Mountains to its confluence with the White River. The 11-mile stretch from Ponca to Kyle's Landing is considered a favorite, highlighted by sandstone, limestone and dolomite bluffs rising more than 400 feet above the water.
The group savored a late lunch on the river and a campfire at 3:30 p.m.. The option of hiking in to the waterfall at Hemmed-In-Hollow was debated. The cascade, with a height of 225 feet, was just around the bend. With waning light and falling temperatures, the paddlers skipped the waterfall and hammered it on down to Kyle's Landing.
Advantages of setting a campsite downriver and back tracking up river on the first day of floating are two-fold. Boats are light because a lot of gear is left in camp. Another is no shuttling is needed at the end of the day. As the group closed in on the last 50 yards before the take out, a branch from a downed tree in a sharp turn on the river dumped three canoes.
The three swimmers gained back their boats and pulled cold and wet, but safe, into camp. A stoked campfire welcomed them because Bob Kramer, Eric McMillan and Greg Adams spent the day exploring the valley around camp.
Portable gas heaters warmed a changing station in the pit toilet. That evening, the group feasted on a "Hoppin' John" variation dinner served on brown rice that included smoked sausage, onion, garlic and "all cooked in tons of butter" according to Kramer.
Meals have always been one of the appealing parts of the winter canoe trips. All of the dinners and a majority of the breakfasts are picked at random and prepared by an individual paddler. This years meals included biscuits and sausage gravy prepared by Dena Turner, spaghetti with Dutch oven meatballs and a classic shrimp etouffee from Bobby Cox.
Kramer interpreted J.R.R. Tolkien's series of The Lord of the Rings: " I think we were all practicing to be Hobbits on the trip ... first breakfast, second breakfast, lunch, seconds and then dinner every day."
Days off on previous trips have been a welcomed break. A day off to hike on the Green River in Desolation Canyon, Utah, led to a snow ball fight after reaching the snow line on the canyon walls above the campground. Sunday, a planned day off of the 2019 trip, a group hiked up Indian Creek. The hike features unique rock formations and water falls.
On Monday, all of the gear was loaded into canoes and the 13 paddlers continued down river from Kyle's Landing 11 miles to Ozark campground. Winter grants an unobstructed view of what the Ozarks has to offer. Rock formations, landmarks and waterfalls are all exposed.
The bare trees added to the visibility of ice formations and wildlife. Bald eagles and river otters were seen. Dan Held, a veteran of the floats, saw a raccoon swim across the river.
The Monday float ended under Briar Bluff at Ozark campground. During dinner everyone listened to a recorded 1970's Grateful Dead concert from a live show in Kentucky. Mark Weathers was up early Tuesday morning preparing an egg to order breakfast.
It rained Tuesday afternoon, and the river rose two feet overnight. Wednesday's float was 20 miles to Mount Hersey. The higher brown water moved the boats at an estimated 6 mph. Strong current pushed the paddlers through the rapid-less river section with the ease of rudder steering.
The paddlers floated their final seven miles Thursday, taking out at Woolum campground. Fortunately, skies cleared en route. That let the group hike the popular Narrows, a thin bluff line that overlooks the river. The area has become a favorite of the group over the years.
The group has always preferred setting up camp on public state or national park land away from formal campgrounds. This winter trip came when camp fees were waived at Buffalo River campgrounds. The campgrounds were empty because of the timing of the trip and inclement weather.
The National Park Service reports that 94,000 people floated the Buffalo National River in 2018. The heavier periods of use are between March and the end of June, depending on the water level.
As the last lunch tortilla wraps were finished Friday, discussion of a 2020 winter float on the Eleven Point River in Missouri was taking place. The shuttle vehicles arrived, cutting the trip short a day before forecasted rain and thunderstorms arrived.
David Gottschalk can be reached at [email protected]
Sports on 03/26/2019