Whenever I hear someone proclaim, "This is how it's done in the South," I quickly close my eyes, hoping to shield the eye roll that immediately takes off from behind my lids. What short-sightedness to think any group of people does one thing the same way, and what hubris to think one knows all the many ways they do them!
Mannerisms, cuisine and lifestyle vary among Southern folk, just as they do with any other populous. Differing availabilities of commodities and economics make for a wide array of styles south of the Mason-Dixon Line. Try ordering barbeque in West Texas and in southern Georgia and see what I mean. Sweet beef in the former locale and vinegar-laden pork in the latter will make you question whether you ordered the same entree.
So, when I recently came across a swanky food magazine with an article titled, "A Better, Truer, More Southern Way to Make Grits," I stopped, took a deep, pre-hyperventilated breath, and began my enlightenment.
The gourmet chef explained how, according to him, this was the way to cook grits like a Southerner: Soak grits in water for 6 hours. Bring to a boil. Let them relax from the heat for 10 minutes. Add bay leaves, and return to low heat for 45 minutes. Then add lemon, kosher salt and butter, stirring only with a silicone spatula.
In the immortal words of Florence Jean Castleberry, he can "Kiss my grits!"
I don't know a soul -- living or passed -- who cooks grits in this manner. I'm not saying his way isn't tasty, and I'm not saying he doesn't know someone who makes them this way. But if the word "gourmet" hadn't gotten him tossed from my Granny's kitchen, the words "soaking," "bay leaf," "kosher" and "silicone" would've done the trick.
Grits are simply corn kernels that have been milled to varying degrees -- although much of our modern grits are actually created from hominy (alkali-treated corn). Stone-ground kernels make for coarser grains; finer bits become polenta; finer yet become cornmeal.
"Quick" and "instant" grits are particles finely ground and sometimes par cooked -- taking less time to cook, but no longer being akin to their former grit glory, in my opinion.
Grits are inexpensive and easy to fix (Unless you're burdened by the moniker of "gourmet chef."), so it is easy to understand why they became a staple in much of the South.
Folks I know cook grits much like the recipe in the movie My Cousin Vinny. Boil grits in water for 20 minutes, and add butter. Yep, that's about how I do it, Mr. Pesci.
I choose the coarsest grind I can find (usually War Eagle Mill stone-ground grits). I add 1 cup of grits to 2 ½ cups of salted boiling water, stir well, reduce heat to low and cook for 25 to 30 minutes, stirring often.
For breakfast, I usually add butter. For dinner -- say with shrimp -- I add cheese and spices of my preference. With various additions, grits can become sweet, savory or whatever you desire them to be.
Even gourmet, bless his heart.
NAN Our Town on 02/11/2016