COOKING FOR TWO: Turning healthful snacks into a full-blown meal

Fresh Asparagus With White Beans and Crispy Cheddar (For The Washington Post/Tom McCorkle)
Fresh Asparagus With White Beans and Crispy Cheddar (For The Washington Post/Tom McCorkle)


If you've eaten at a small-plates restaurant in the past decade or two, you may have noticed something: At the good ones, vegetables abound. In fact, I've long said that the trend helped break chefs of their protein-at-the-center-of-the-plate habit, resulting in creative combinations of ingredients — and many more options for vegetarian and vegan diners.

That same phenomenon is at play, for home cooks this time, in Lukas Volger's new book, "Snacks for Dinner." Volger was inspired to write it after a friend made him and his husband lunch in California, breaking up a trip in which they were eating one restaurant meal after another, and serving them a seemingly effortless and informal array of small dishes — a tabbouleh salad from a local maker, farm-fresh carrots, dips, crackers and more — that became their favorite meal of the trip.

This style of eating, of course, is prevalent in plenty of cultures, from Greek mezze and Korean banchan to the Southern groaning board. And as Volger puts it, it's an ideal way to satisfy plant-based eaters. "You can just have all these different preparations of vegetables," he said from his home in Brooklyn. "As a vegetarian, that's what you actually are excited about eating."

I expect to cook my way through Volger's book, laying out for friends a spread of such dishes as mixed mushroom pate, brussels sprout chips, nut-and-seed crackers and chewy tofu strips. But the first thing I made for myself and my husband is this asparagus and white bean salad, which beautifully combines seasonal fresh ingredients, a pantry staple and a special touch. The asparagus can stay raw, as does watercress. The beans can come from a can — or your fridge or freezer if you cooked them from dried and have them stored away.

The special touch is a cheddar frico, a flavorful crisp that you make by cooking shredded cheese until the oil separates and it lightly browns, magically firming up into a disk as it cools. I had previously made it only from parmesan or Pecorino and did it in the oven, arranging the grated cheese into small piles that turn into crispy circles, perfect for laying on soup. (Of, if you form them into a cup while they're still warm, they become a vehicle for appetizer-sized portions of spreads, dressed greens or bites of anything else you like.) In this recipe, you make the frico in one big circle in a nonstick skillet and use sharp cheddar, sprinkled with freshly ground black pepper, to make a tangy, delectable, crunchy crouton for the fresh vegetable salad.

Fresh Asparagus With White Beans and Crispy Cheddar

  • 1 cup (4 ounces) coarsely grated sharp cheddar cheese (see note for how to use vegan cheddar-style cheese shreds)
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed
  • 1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest
  • 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
  • 1 teaspoon honey or agave nectar, plus more to taste
  • ½ teaspoon fine salt, plus more to taste
  • 8 ounces asparagus, trimmed and thinly sliced on a diagonal
  • 1 (14 ½-ounce) can no-salt-added cannellini or other white beans, drained and rinsed or 1 1/2 cups cooked
  • 1 cup watercress sprigs or baby arugula

Heat a medium nonstick skillet over medium heat. Sprinkle the cheese all over the surface in an even layer, and season with a few grinds of black pepper. Let the cheese melt and then bubble as the oils separate from the solids and the cheese darkens slightly to a pale brown color, 4 to 6 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the cheese cool for a few minutes, until it turns crisp. Using a thin spatula, loosen it from the pan, transfer to a plate and let cool completely. Break into pieces.

In a small bowl, whisk together the oil, lemon zest and juice, honey or agave and salt. Taste, and add more salt and/or honey as needed.

Taste the asparagus. If you prefer it cooked, in a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat 1 tablespoon of oil until shimmering. Add the asparagus and saute the slices until just tender, 1 to 2 minutes.

In a large bowl, combine the asparagus, beans and watercress or arugula. Toss with the dressing to coat. Just before serving, top with the frico.

Makes 2 to 3 servings.

Note: If using vegan cheese, after you add the pepper, drizzle the 2 tablespoons oil over and around the cheese. It may take a minute or two longer to brown than the dairy cheese, depending on the brand. Cook until it turns a medium-dark brown, then pour off any excess oil before letting it cool.

Adapted from "Snacks for Dinner" by Lukas Volger (Harper Wave, 2022)


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