Feeding the soul: Challah a celebration of faith, taste

Challah a celebration of faith, taste

Challah With Olive Oil and Honey. MUST CREDIT: Photo by Scott Suchman for The Washington Post.
Challah With Olive Oil and Honey. MUST CREDIT: Photo by Scott Suchman for The Washington Post.

Just about every Friday, on the eve of Shabbat, I make challah, the Jewish enriched, braided bread. I make it so often, the process has become a kitchen dance where I'm guided by muscle memory. I know the feel of the dough so well, I adjust it ever-so-lightly, depending on the weather and temperature of my kitchen.

I didn't grow up eating challah and so when I began baking it, I struggled. Every recipe I came across resulted in a dry, crumbly challah that was just a smidgen more flavorful than cardboard, but I had a feeling challah should taste ethereal, like a sunshiny eggy cloud. It wasn't until I landed in cookbook author Melissa Clark's home as her kitchen assistant, and she shared her recipe, that I found the challah I wanted to make again and again.

The secret, Clark explained to me one day, was choosing more egg yolks vs. whole eggs for a tender crumb, juice in place of water, and olive oil instead of vegetable. Her message: Use what you can to infuse your challah with flavor.

By far, the hardest part of making challah is waiting for it to cool and not tucking into it before Shabbat starts. There's nothing quite like a fresh-from-the-oven warm loaf seducing you with its heady aroma, so if you happen to sneak a segment for "quality control," surely you can't be blamed.

Challah With Olive Oil and Honey

Total time: 3 hours, 20 minutes

Servings: 10

Make Ahead: The dough can be prepared up to the second rise and allowed to complete its second rise in the refrigerator overnight.

Storage Notes: Challah is best the day it's made, but will keep, well wrapped, for up to three days. Leftover challah makes excellent French toast.

Ingredients

3/4 cup fresh orange juice or unfiltered apple cider, room temperature or lukewarm

1 packet (1/4 ounce) active dry yeast (about 2 1/4 teaspoons)

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for greasing the bowl and dough

2 large eggs, divided

2 large egg yolks

1/3 cup mild honey, such as clover or orange blossom

1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for egg wash

2 cups all-purpose flour

2 cups bread flour (may substitute all-purpose flour), plus more as needed

1/3 cup golden raisins (optional)

1 tablespoon water

White sesame seeds, for decorating (optional)

Directions

In a large bowl or in the bowl of a stand mixer, add the orange juice or apple cider. Sprinkle the yeast over it and let stand for about 5 minutes. The yeast should get frothy and develop ripples as it absorbs the water. If any of the yeast is not dissolved by then, gently whisk the mixture to combine.

Whisk the oil into the yeast mixture. Then, whisk in 1 egg and the egg yolks, one at a time, followed by the honey and salt until the liquid is fairly uniform.

If using a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, lock the mixer bowl in position, add the flours and knead on medium-low until a soft, pliable and tacky (not sticky) dough comes together, about 5 minutes. The dough should be smooth, elastic and soft. Depending on how humid or hot it is, as well as other variables, the amount of flour needed may vary; if it's still overly sticky, add more flour, 1 tablespoon at a time, until the desired texture is reached. If your dough is somewhat firm, you've added too much flour. It's not the end of the world, but make a note to tread more carefully next time.

If kneading by hand, add the flours and mix, using a large wooden spoon or stiff bowl scraper, until the dough starts to come together in a shaggy, sticky mass. Knead the dough until it becomes a sticky, singular lump. Continue to knead until the dough is smooth and slightly tacky (but not sticky), 8 to 10 minutes.

Using a bowl scraper, transfer the dough to a clean counter or a cutting board, wash the bowl and dry it thoroughly. Lightly oil the bowl. Give the dough a few kneads to shape it into a ball and return it to the bowl, lightly oiling the top and sides of the dough, as well. Cover the bowl with a clean kitchen towel and let rise in a warm place until the dough has doubled in size, about 1 hour.

Using your knuckles, press down (don't punch) the dough, cover, and let it rise again for about 1 hour. The dough should double again and have an even more plush, malleable feel.

Line a large, rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Knead the raisins, if using, into the dough still in the bowl. Transfer the dough to the counter and divide it into 3 equal parts (about 320 grams each without raisins). Roll out each part into 12- to 18-inch ropes; then pinch the top of the ropes together and tightly braid them until you reach the end. Tuck both ends of the challah under for a neater look. Transfer the braided challah to the baking sheet.

In a small bowl, combine the remaining egg with 1 tablespoon of water and a tiny pinch of salt. Brush the loaf all over with the egg wash and let the loaf rise, uncovered, for about 45 minutes, brushing the loaf midway through the rise with the egg wash.

While the challah is rising, position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 375 degrees. Gently brush a third coat of the egg wash over the loaf and sprinkle the sesame seeds on top, if using.

Bake the challah, 27 to 35 minutes, until rich golden brown and burnished. Transfer the challah to a wire rack and let it cool until warm or room temperature.

Notes: To do a 4- or 6-braid or a round challah, numerous videos online can teach you approaches/methods. For those new to challah-baking, you can make a round challah from a three-braid loaf wrapped around itself with the ends tucked under.

Olga Massov writes for The Washington Post. She adapted this recipe from one by cookbook author Melissa Clark.

Challah With Olive Oil and Honey. MUST CREDIT: Photo by Scott Suchman for The Washington Post.
Challah With Olive Oil and Honey. MUST CREDIT: Photo by Scott Suchman for The Washington Post.

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