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story.lead_photo.caption Cheesy Cauliflower Soup. MUST CREDIT: Photo by Tom McCorkle for The Washington Post.

This cauliflower soup takes inspiration from Welsh rarebit, a classic pub dish of piping hot cheese sauce spiked with beer spooned over thick toast. In this iteration, it's the cauliflower that gets the rarebit treatment, resulting in a soup that is cheesy and slightly bitter from the beer. Mustard and Worcestershire sauce add depth, and sharp cheddar cheese delivers a tangy zing.

I've served this soup with pretty pieces of cauliflower floating in the creamy base. I've also whirred the vegetable in my blender for a smooth soup served in small sipping cups, as prelude to dinner.

It looks pretty with a shower of chives on the top or a floating crouton.

Cheesy Cauliflower Soup

2 tablespoons olive oil or vegetable oil

2 cups diced onion (from 1 large)

1 teaspoon kosher salt, divided use

4 cups cauliflower florets (about 1 medium head)

2 cups chicken broth or vegetable broth

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 cups whole milk, warmed

½ cup dark beer, such as Guinness

1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves or ½ teaspoon dried thyme

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1 teaspoon dry mustard

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 cups grated sharp cheddar cheese

In a 5-quart stockpot over medium heat, heat the olive oil until shimmering. Add the onion and ½ teaspoon salt, stir and cook until the onion turns slightly golden, about 10 minutes. Add the cauliflower, stir everything together to coat with the oil, cook for an additional 3 to 4 minutes, add the broth and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low so the liquid is just simmering. Cover the pot and cook until the cauliflower is fork-tender, 7 to 10 minutes.

While the cauliflower cooks, in a small saucepan over medium-high heat, melt the butter until foaming. Sprinkle the flour over the melted butter and whisk until smooth, forming a roux. Reduce the heat and continue to whisk until the roux turns golden brown, about 7 minutes. Add the warmed milk in a stream, whisking until thick and smooth. Add the beer, whisking until smooth, and bring to a simmer, warming just until the bubbles have dispersed, 2 to 3 minutes.

Using a rubber spatula, scrape the beer sauce into the soup and stir until smooth. Add the remaining ½ teaspoon salt, the thyme, Worcestershire, mustard, black pepper and cheese. Stir and heat until a silky cheese soup surrounds the cauliflower, 3 to 4 minutes. Serve hot.

Makes 8 servings.

Nutrition information: Each serving contains approximately 280 calories, 12 g protein, 19 g fat, 16 g carbohydrate (7 g sugar), 40 mg cholesterol, 410 mg sodium and 3 g fiber.

Carbohydrate choices: 1

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