Loop serves up taste of Ozark Highlands Trail

Mike McBride of Winslow looks over formations on Dec. 13, 2019, along the Shepherd Springs Loop trail at Lake Fort Smith State Park. The 5-mile loop takes in part of the Ozark Highlands Trail which runs more than 200 miles across the Arkansas Ozarks. The loop offers a taste of the epic trail. (NWA Democrat-Gazette/Flip Putthoff)
Mike McBride of Winslow looks over formations on Dec. 13, 2019, along the Shepherd Springs Loop trail at Lake Fort Smith State Park. The 5-mile loop takes in part of the Ozark Highlands Trail which runs more than 200 miles across the Arkansas Ozarks. The loop offers a taste of the epic trail. (NWA Democrat-Gazette/Flip Putthoff)

A sign at the trailhead pretty much says it all.

"Whether you hike one mile or all 253 miles of this trail, the sounds, scents and sights of the Ozark National Forest offer opportunities for your mind to still."

Visit Lake Fort Smith State Park

Lake Fort Smith State Park has hiking and mountain bike trails, 30 campsites, 10 cabins, fishing, boating and a visitor center. Park interpreters lead nature hikes and present programs. The park swimming pool and the marina are open in season.

The park is in Crawford County, about 10 miles south of Winslow on U.S. 71.

Information: 479-369-2469, arkansasstateparks.…

Hikers read the message at the start of the Ozark Highlands Trail. The prose is posted next to the visitor center at Lake Fort Smith State Park where the epic trail begins. It meanders its way across northern Arkansas, mostly through the 1.2-million acre Ozark National Forest.

Like the words indicate, hikers can spend an hour, weeks or months exploring one of Arkansas' longest trails. At Lake Fort Smith, Shepherd Springs Loop is a scenic 5-mile day hike that gives hikers a taste of what the Ozark Highlands Trail is like.

Yet it's a mere morsel from the banquet of woods, waterfalls and solitude along the entire route.

Shepherd Springs Loop is a favorite hike for Mike McBride. He lives in Winslow, smack dab in the middle of two beautiful Arkansas state parks, Devil's Den and Lake Fort Smith.

On a chilly day in mid-December, McBride led the way along trails at both parks, including Shepherd Springs Loop.

"No matter where people live in Northwest Arkansas, it's easy to see both of these parks in a single day," McBride said. The two parks are about 20 miles apart, with Devil's Den situated west of Winslow and Lake Fort Smith southeast of town.

Hikes along Shepherd Springs Loop can start at the Lake Fort Smith State Park visitor center. For a shorter hike, drive into the campground and start at the campground trailhead. It's located where the campground road curves and starts uphill toward a restroom building.

It's smooth going at first, with nice views of the lake and a 10-foot waterfall. The cascade tumbles loud and full after a major rain, but mostly dripped on this winter day.

A little farther along, the trail forks to start the Shepherd Springs Loop. A sign directs hikers to go left and take the high road above the lake for the first half of the loop. The return trip is lower, parallel to the lake shore.

McBride took the opposite route, preferring to hike along the lake.

After heading right at the fork, the footing gets dicey with lots of loose rock and roots to navigate. Sure-footed hikers are rewarded with rock formations and cliffs galore. Views of the lake are lovely through the leafless trees. Now and then, the trail drops down to the water's edge.

Across the lake, McBride pointed out Jack's Creek coming into the lake. That stream and Frog Bayou are the primary tributaries. Backpackers have to do a wet crossing of Frog Bayou to continue along the Ozark Highlands Trail.

McBride stopped to admire a rock chimney at the remnants of a homestead.

"One thing you notice is there's no graffiti," McBride said. "Anyone who'd do that is too lazy to walk this far."

More hiking led to a spring close to the lake. There's a concrete spring box here about the size of an automobile. It's leaky now, but once held water. Elaborate rock work, hand-laid long ago, surrounds the spring.

Years ago, this was the inspiration that prompted McBride, an avid angler, to hike the trail.

"I was fishing one day and saw this spring foundation through the trees. I beached my boat and walked up the hill. That got me wanting to hike the rest of the trail."

A trek on the Shepherd Springs Loop has no doubt inspired adventurous souls to shoulder a backpack and go for the granddaddy, a hike of the whole Ozark Highlands Trail.

Sports on 02/04/2020

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