There's nothing wrong with serving straight-up breakfast-style pancakes for dinner, but through the years, The Washington Post's Food section has offered a number of savory renditions that I tend to favor for an evening meal.
Here, nubby corn kernels, black beans and green onions shore up the pancakes' heartiness, and sweet chile powder lends an orange hue plus mild heat.
The recipe comes by way of Ken Albala's scholarly volume Pancakes (Reaktion Books, 2008), and although it's slim on the shelf, it is mighty in its scope. While the pats of butter melt on your short stacks, feel free to discuss:
■ The first recipe printed in English for pancakes dates to 1588, and, according to Albala, following the directions to the letter results in a hot mess.
■ Queen Victoria's chef served pancakes in the royal household.
■ Speaking of things British, a centuries-old women-only pancake race is held in Buckinghamshire, England. Once participants hear a bellringer's call, they must run with a skillet containing a hot pancake, flipping it three times along the way. The one who first reaches the bellringer, serves him that pancake and receives his kiss, wins. The race takes place this coming Tuesday.
Serve these with your favorite red salsa and maybe some freshly cooked chorizo sausage on the side. Albala recommends serving these pancakes with guacamole and a shot of anejo tequila. Come to think of it, this whole enterprise would make a nice brunch, too.
Chile Corn Pancakes
½ cup frozen corn kernels
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more for serving
1 tablespoon tomato paste
2 teaspoons smoked sweet paprika
2 green onions
1 cup dried polenta or coarsely ground cornmeal
¾ cup flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
¾ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed
1 ½ cups half-and-half, or more as needed
½cup no-salt-added canned black beans
Vegetable or olive oil, for the pan
Salsa
Place a small baking sheet in the oven; heat to 200 degrees.
Place the corn in a microwave-safe bowl. Place the the butter, tomato paste and smoked paprika in a separate microwave-safe bowl. Microwave them simultaneously on defrost for about 3 minutes, or until the butter has melted. Stir to combine the butter mixture; it will look like a loose red paste.
Trim the green onions and cut crosswise into thin slices.
Use a fork to stir together the dried polenta or cornmeal, flour, baking powder and salt in a mixing bowl. Add the seasoned butter mixture and the half-and-half to form a thick yet spreadable batter, adding a bit more of the half-and-half, as needed.
Stir in the corn, black beans and half the green onions until evenly distributed.
Brush a large nonstick skillet lightly with oil, then place it over medium heat. Once it's hot, drop batter by the ⅓ cupful into the skillet. Cook for about 1 ½ minutes on the first side until lightly browned and just set on the bottom, sprinkling each one with a small pinch of salt. Gently flip them over (two spatulas works well) and finish cooking for 2 to 3 minutes on the second sides, until lightly browned and puffed. Repeat with remaining batter. You may need to add a bit more oil to the pan between batches, or reduce the heat if the pancakes are browning too quickly. As they are done, transfer the pancakes to the baking sheet in the oven to keep them warm.
Divide among individual plates. Garnish each stack with the remaining green onions. Serve with salsa, and more butter at the table.
Makes 3 generous servings.
Recipe adapted from Pancakes by Ken Albala (Reaktion, 2008)
Food on 02/27/2019