Cooking for two

Crispy Pork Chops get crunch from panko crumbs

Crispy Pork Chops With Buttered Radishes
Michael Graydon & Nikole Herriott (The New York Times)
Crispy Pork Chops With Buttered Radishes Michael Graydon & Nikole Herriott (The New York Times)

Neighborhood restaurants occupy a very special place in my heart. These spots are not on any "hot" lists, the staff members are pleasant but generally indifferent to your presence, and the menus almost never change.

But none of that matters, because that's not why you go. You go because you just can't wash another skillet. You go because they have that one salad you're always craving and tastes the same every single time. You go because it's nice to have a place close by where you can sit and have a glass of wine and a crispy pork schnitzel all to yourself.

But maybe sometimes you don't want to leave the house, and you'd like that crispy pork schnitzel to come to you. Or rather, I would like to bring that crispy pork schnitzel to you.

To be fair, my version is not technically schnitzel, and it's not quite Milanese, either. I wouldn't dare call it tonkatsu. The recipe is simply what it says it is, which is a pork chop that is very, very crispy. No pounding, no egg, no dipping, no dredging, no deep-frying. Just a thinly cut chop pressed into some store-bought breadcrumbs and seared in a very hot, generously oiled skillet until it's as golden brown as a graham cracker.

I prefer bone-in pork chops, not just because I find nibbling on the bone to be extremely delightful, but because the bone prevents the meat from contracting in the skillet (which leads to uneven browning). That said, you could do this with boneless cutlets; just be sure to lightly press down on the meat as it cooks to make even contact with the skillet. Another preference of mine is using panko breadcrumbs, since they are the crunchiest right from the get-go and stay the crispiest once cooked.

While I truly can't stand being told exactly how to eat (or telling you exactly how to eat), I feel I have to mention a crucial detail for enjoying this very crispy pork: Fresh lemon wedges must always be present, but they should always be served next to and never on the chop. Squeezing the whole thing with lemon juice will immediately soften everything you've worked so hard to crisp. Instead, I suggest squeezing each bite right before it goes into your mouth, and not a moment sooner.

It's how I eat in the restaurant, and at home, it's no different.

Crispy Pork Chops With Buttered Radishes

2 bone-in or boneless pork chops (rib or loin), cut ½-inch thick (about 6 ounces each)

Kosher salt and ground black pepper

1 ½ cups panko or fresh coarse breadcrumbs

3 tablespoons canola oil, plus more as needed

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 tablespoons capers

1 bunch radishes, with tops on if you like, cut into quarters

Flaky sea salt

1 lemon, cut into wedges

Season pork with salt and pepper. Place panko in a rimmed baking sheet or baking dish and season it with salt and pepper. Working one at a time, firmly press both sides of each pork chop into the seasoned panko until the chops are evenly and well-coated.

Heat oil in a large (10- to 12-inch) skillet over medium-high heat; it should evenly coat the bottom of the skillet. If it doesn't, add a bit more oil. Place the pork chops in the skillet and cook until deeply golden brown, like the color of a well-baked croissant, 3 to 4 minutes.

Using tongs or a spatula, flip pork and continue to cook until well-browned on the other side, too, another 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer pork to a plate, platter or cutting board lined with paper towels and season with salt.

Wipe out skillet and return to the stove over medium-high heat. Add butter, letting it sizzle, brown and foam. Add the capers and half of the radishes, seasoning them with salt and pepper. Toss a few times, just to wilt the radish greens, if they're still on, and to evenly coat the radishes with the brown butter and capers.

Divide pork chops among plates and nestle butter-tossed radishes and capers alongside, plus remaining raw radishes. Sprinkle with a bit of flaky salt and serve with lemon wedges alongside for squeezing over.

Makes 2 servings.

Food on 02/13/2019

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