Wayward waffles: Cornmeal and nontraditional additives set these bad boys apart from their all-flour relatives

Cornmeal Waffles With Bananas in Bourbon-Maple Syrup
Cornmeal Waffles With Bananas in Bourbon-Maple Syrup

In its most basic form, a cornmeal waffle is nothing more than cornbread batter cooked in a waffle iron.

But for crust-lovers it's a cornbread dream. They are a delicious alternative to the classic skillet version with so many nooks and crannies for cradling pools of butter and harboring beans, chili or sloppy Joe filling. They can even be used in place of bread for sandwiches.

Loading the batter with vegetables, cheese and meat turns the humble bread into a meal in its own right.

And a little sweetener can take them from supper table to breakfast table or even turn them into dessert.

Cornmeal is available in a range of textures and colors. And though most will work for cornmeal waffles, they aren't all equal. Yellow cornmeal contains slightly more vitamin A than white cornmeal. Stone-ground or water-ground cornmeal has a higher nutritional value because it includes the germ and hull. Stone-ground corn is labeled such and should be stored in the refrigerator or freezer to preserve freshness. Commercially ground (or steel-ground) cornmeal has had almost all of the germ and hull removed, and will keep almost indefinitely.

Buttermilk is often thought of as an essential ingredient in most cornbread recipes -- it is the acid that activates the leavening agent to give the bread structure and lift. However, it isn't always necessary.

When to use buttermilk (or another acidic liquid such as yogurt or sour cream) or regular milk depends on the type of leavening agent used. If a recipe calls for baking powder and baking soda, use buttermilk. If a recipe calls for only baking powder, regular milk can be used.

A general guideline when creating or converting recipes:

To leaven with baking powder only use 1 to 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder per cup of flour/meal. Batters that include heavy bits such as fruits, vegetables, cheese or meat will benefit from 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder per cup flour.

To leaven with baking powder and baking soda, add 1/2 teaspoon baking soda and reduce the baking powder by up to two teaspoons.

Cornmeal waffles can be made gluten-free by simply omitting the wheat flour and replacing it with more cornmeal, however this often results in denser, grittier waffles. A better option is to replace the all-purpose flour with a gluten-free blend. We tested the recipes measure for measure using Cup4Cup Multipurpose Flour and King Arthur Gluten Free All-Purpose Flour. Both flours produced tasty waffles with slight differences in flavor and texture. Neither was better than the other.

Bob's Red Mill also makes a reliable gluten-free blend, but we did not use it to test any of the following recipes.

This recipe is naturally gluten-free and thanks to creamed corn in the batter has a more pronounced corn flavor.

Creamed Cornbread Waffles

2 cups yellow cornmeal

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 tablespoon sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1 cup buttermilk

2 eggs

1 cup creamed corn

2 tablespoons vegetable oil or melted butter

In a bowl, whisk together the cornmeal, salt, sugar, baking powder and baking soda.

In a large bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, eggs, creamed corn and oil or butter. Add the dry ingredients to the buttermilk mixture and stir to combine.

Heat a waffle iron according to manufacturer's directions. Spoon batter (about 1/4 cup per 4-inch waffle, scant 3/4 cup for a large round waffle) into iron, spreading slightly and cook until done. Repeat with the remaining batter.

Makes about 4 large round waffles or 8 (4-inch) waffles.

Recipe adapted from Alton Brown

Banana and bourbon lovers will swoon for these waffles. Using spiced or gold rum in place of the bourbon would also be delicious. These waffles get additional lift from whipping the egg whites before folding them into the batter.

Cornmeal Waffles With Bananas in Bourbon-Maple Syrup

10 tablespoons butter, divided use

2 large barely ripe bananas, peeled and cut into 1/4- to 1/2-inch thick rounds (see note)

2 tablespoons bourbon OR rum

1/2 cup chopped toasted pecans or walnuts, optional

1/2 cup maple syrup

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

3/4 cup cornmeal

1 tablespoon PLUS 1 teaspoon granulated sugar, divided use

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon salt

3/4 cup buttermilk

1 cup milk

4 eggs, separated

Heat a waffle iron according to manufacturer's directions.

Melt 8 tablespoons of the butter in a small saucepan over low heat or in the microwave; set aside.

Place the remaining 2 tablespoons butter in a medium skillet over medium heat; swirl to coat pan. When foam subsides, add the bananas in a single layer. Cook 2 to 3 minutes on each side or until golden brown. Transfer bananas and melted butter to a small bowl. Return skillet to heat and carefully add the bourbon. Simmer 1 to 2 minutes or until mostly evaporated. Add nuts (if using) and maple syrup and cook until syrup is heated through. Add to bowl with bananas; set aside.

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt.

In a separate bowl, whisk together the melted butter, buttermilk, milk and egg yolks. Stir egg mixture into flour mixture.

In a mixing bowl, beat egg whites with 1 teaspoon granulated sugar to stiff peaks. Stir 1/3 of the egg whites into the batter, then gently fold in the remaining whites.

Cook batter, about 1/4 cup per waffle, on hot waffle iron according to manufacturer's instructions until golden brown and crisp. (Our waffles were ready in about 4 minutes.)

Serve waffles immediately with warm bananas and syrup.

Note: It's best to use slightly under-ripe or barely ripe bananas in this recipe as very ripe bananas will not hold up after sauteing.

Makes 8 to 10 (4-inch) waffles.

These waffles are equally good topped with maple syrup or salsa and sour cream.

Loaded Cornmeal Waffles

4 to 6 slices thick-cut bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

4 green onions, white and green parts thinly sliced

1/4 to 1/2 small red bell pepper, diced

1 clove garlic, minced

3/4 cup corn kernels

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

1/8 teaspoon ground red pepper (cayenne)

1/8 teaspoon smoked paprika

1 cup cornmeal

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

1/2 to 3/4 cup shredded cheese such as sharp cheddar or Monterey Jack

1 cup milk

1 egg, beaten

Sour cream and salsa OR maple syrup, for serving

In a large, skillet over medium heat, cook the bacon, stirring frequently, until crisp. Remove bacon with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.

Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the bacon drippings in skillet. Add green onions and bell pepper to bacon drippings and cook, over medium heat, until onion begins to soften. Add garlic and corn and continue cooking, stirring frequently, until vegetables are soft. Stir in salt, black pepper, red pepper and smoked paprika. Cook, stirring, for 30 seconds. Remove from heat and set aside.

In a mixing bowl, combine cornmeal, flour, baking powder and cheese. Stir in bacon, vegetables (along with any fat left in skillet), milk and egg; mix well. The mixture will be thick.

Heat a waffle iron according to manufacturer's directions. Spoon batter (about 1/4 cup per 4-inch waffle) into iron, spreading slightly, and cook until done. Repeat with the remaining batter.

Serve topped with sour cream and salsa or maple syrup.

Makes about 6 (4-inch) waffles.

These waffles get a touch of sweetness from maple syrup in the batter. They are excellent topped with fruit and more maple syrup or as a foil for spicy barbecue.

Vermont Maple Cornbread Waffles

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 cup cornmeal

1 tablespoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 eggs

1/3 cup pure maple syrup, plus more for serving

2/3 cup milk

2 tablespoons vegetable oil or melted butter

Heat a waffle iron according to manufacturer's instructions.

In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, cornmeal, baking powder and salt.

In a separate bowl, whisk eggs, maple syrup, milk and vegetable oil or butter.

Stir the egg mixture into the flour mixture and mix just until combined.

Spoon batter (about 1/4 cup per 4-inch waffle) into waffle iron, spreading slightly, and cook until done. Repeat with the remaining batter.

Makes about 6 (4-inch) waffles or 2 large round waffles.

Recipe adapted from The Cornbread Gospels by Crescent Dragonwagon

Cheddar-Jalapeno Cornbread Waffles

3/4 cup all-purpose flour

1 cup cornmeal

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup buttermilk

2 eggs

2 tablespoons vegetable oil or melted butter

1/2 cup shredded sharp cheddar cheese

1 fresh jalapeno, chopped OR 2 tablespoons chopped pickled jalapeno

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, baking soda and salt.

In a separate bowl, whisk buttermilk, eggs, oil or butter, cheese and jalapeno.

Stir the egg mixture into the flour mixture and mix just until combined.

Spoon batter (about 1/4 cup per waffle) into waffle iron, spreading slightly, and cook until done. Repeat with the remaining batter.

Makes about 8 (4-inch) waffles or 3 large round waffles.

Lemon Blueberry Cornmeal Waffles

1 cup cornmeal

1 cup all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

Pinch salt

Finely grated zest of 1 lemon

1/4 cup honey

3/4 cup buttermilk

4 tablespoons butter, melted

1 egg

1 cup fresh blueberries, plus more for serving

Whipped cream, for serving

Maple syrup, for serving

In a medium bowl, whisk together the cornmeal, flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt and lemon zest.

In a separate bowl, whisk honey, buttermilk, melted butter and egg.

Stir the egg mixture into the flour mixture and mix just until combined. Fold in blueberries.

Spoon batter (about 1/4 cup per 4-inch waffle) into waffle iron, spreading flat, and cook until done. These waffles are prone to sticking, especially if under-baked. Repeat with the remaining batter.

Serve warm with additional blueberries, whipped cream and/or maple syrup.

Makes 4 large round or 8 (4-inch) waffles.

These waffles are excellent topped with butter and syrup, but they're even better covered in sausage gravy.

Sausage-Cheddar Cornbread Waffles

1 cup cornmeal

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

Pinch salt

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

1 cup milk

2 eggs

2 tablespoons vegetable oil or melted butter

6 ounces breakfast sausage, cooked and crumbled

4 ounces shredded cheddar cheese

In a medium bowl, whisk together the cornmeal, flour, baking powder, salt and black pepper.

In a separate bowl, whisk together milk, eggs and oil or butter.

Stir the egg mixture into the flour mixture and mix just until combined. Stir in sausage (along with any pan drippings) and cheese.

Spoon batter (about 1/4 cup per 4-inch waffle) into waffle iron, spreading slightly, and cook to desired doneness (we preferred these waffles cooked on the lighter side of the doneness spectrum) according to manufacturer's instructions. Repeat with the remaining batter.

Makes 4 large round or 8 (4-inch) waffles.

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Food styling/KELLY BRANT

Sausage-Cheddar Cornbread Waffles make a delicious allin-one breakfast.

photo

Food styling/KELLY BRANT

Cheddar-Jalapeno Cornbread Waffles accompany a bowl of chili.

Food on 02/28/2018

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