HOT SPRINGS -- "Jumbo shrimp" can qualify as an oxymoron -- a contradiction in terms like "open secret" or "military intelligence." But the jumbo shrimp served by the Oyster Bar at Oaklawn are big and beautiful. They're also plenty flavorful, though boiled a smidgen too long on a recent race day.
Even better are the seafood counter's raw Gulf Coast oysters on the half shell. They taste oh-so fresh, almost melting in a racegoer's mouth. The shrimp (four for $10) and oysters (four for $8) are among the varied food offerings at the popular Hot Springs track -- not uniformly terrific, but some of it tastier than might be expected from a sporting venue.
It's fair to say that dining is an afterthought for many Oaklawn patrons. They've come mainly to test their wagering skills and good luck in picking winners during the annual racing season that runs through April 14 at the track along Central Avenue.
But the food, from nearly two dozen concession stands and several sit-down restaurants, provides a guaranteed return on investment -- something impossible at the parimutuel windows. There are dining options as well in Oaklawn's adjacent gaming area -- but please don't call it a "casino."
As tasty as the oysters and big shrimp may be, the headline act on the track's food menu is the redoubtable corned-beef sandwich. It's the star of the show on the opening Saturday of each racing season when priced at a mere 50 cents, said to have been what it cost during Oaklawn's first season in 1904.
Corned beef is hardly an Arkansas staple like cheese dip or fried catfish. Its revered status here is said to reflect that fact that a good many patrons of Hot Springs' curative bathhouses at the start of the 20th century came from the Chicago area, where the cured meat was popular.
These days, Oaklawn buys its corned beef in plastic barrels from a Chicago supplier. The beef is boiled in the park's subterranean kitchens in batches of about 150 pounds at a time. Condiments include horseradish and mustard -- or if you must, (although it would be heretical) ketchup and mayonnaise. Priced at $6.50 with the meat heaped on lovely light rye bread, the sandwich is hearty enough to be shared by two trackgoers at the rail.
Another good value is the all-beef hot dog, a plump and juicy frankfurter. It goes for $4 at a time when similar sausages at big-league baseball parks can cost twice as much. To wash down the food, there is abundant availability of soft drinks as well as beer, wine and hard liquor.
Visitors to Oaklawn have a new dining option this season, at the east edge of the track's south parking lot. Previously open only to Oaklawn employees, Track Kitchen now serves food to the public on racing days from 5 a.m. to the start of the last race, and other days from 5 a.m. to 1 p.m.
Managing Track Kitchen is Jana Ford Digby, offering a menu with some of her family recipes from the popular former Hot Springs restaurant Ed's Place. Lunch specials include barbecue brisket on Thursday, fried or baked catfish on Friday, pan-fried or baked chicken on Saturday and meatloaf on Sunday.
Track Kitchen continues to be patronized by employees of Oaklawn's stables and other track staff, who supply a hint of authenticity. Television monitors show the races, and betting terminals are available. Photographs of former Arkansas Derby winners add to the equestrian atmosphere.
For more about dining options and other information about Oaklawn, visit oaklawn.com or call (800) 625-5296.
Weekend on 02/15/2018