Deep thinkers debate good versus evil, while baked goods, which have goodness baked right in, debate good versus better, which is to say butter versus brown butter.
Butter set over steady heat separates; left to sizzle, the milk solids toast in the milk fat, turning sweet, creamy butter into rich, nutty brown butter.
If brown butter is better than butter, imagine how good a baked good is when baked with better butter. Really, really good.
Brown-Butter Lemon Squares
Butter for pan
3 cups granulated sugar
Finely grated zest of 4 lemons
3/4 cup unsalted butter, in chunks (1 1/2 sticks)
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt plus a pinch
1 cup PLUS 9 tablespoons all purpose flour, divided use
1 cup PLUS 3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice (from 6 big or 12 small lemons)
6 eggs
Heat oven to 325 degrees. Lightly butter a 13-by-9-inch glass baking pan. Line with parchment paper, leaving some overhang. Set rack in lower third of oven.
In a food processor, combine the granulated sugar and the lemon zest. Process for 30 seconds.
Transfer 1/3 cup of the sugar mixture to a small bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside.
Transfer 6 tablespoons of the sugar mixture to a large mixing bowl (for brown-butter pastry). Dump the remaining sugar mixture in the food processor into a large saucepan (for lemon curd).
To make the pastry, place butter in a medium saucepan set over medium heat. Cook until butter melts, foams and begins to bubble. Once bubbly, using a heat-safe rubber spatula, scrape bottom of pan and continue cooking until butter is dotted with brown specks, about 8 minutes. Scrape butter and specks over the 6 tablespoons sugar in the mixing bowl. Stir in vanilla, baking soda and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Stir in 1 cup flour. Then knead in 7 tablespoons of the remaining flour; pastry will be stiff. Pat into prepared pan (bottom only, not sides).
Bake at 325 degrees until pastry browns, 28 to 30 minutes. Cool on a rack at least 15 minutes.
Reduce oven to 300 degrees.
Meanwhile, make the curd. Whisk remaining 2 tablespoons flour and the pinch of salt into the sugar in the large saucepan. Whisk in juice and eggs. Set over medium heat and cook, whisking constantly, for 6 to 8 minutes. Press through a fine-mesh strainer.
Spread the lemon curd over the cooled pastry. Bake at 300 degrees until set, 10 to 12 minutes. Cool completely. Press plastic wrap against lemon surface. Cover pan. Chill overnight.
To serve: Carefully remove and discard plastic wrap. Grasp parchment overhang and lift lemon block out of pan. Sprinkle surface with the 1/3 cup reserved sugar and spread with an offset spatula. Use a long heavy knife to trim edges. Cut into 24 squares.
Makes 24 servings.
Food on 08/15/2018