MALE CALL

Reworking old garment worth cost to be 'cool'

Q I have a jacket from Banana Republic, in which the lining is torn, zipper broken and the pocket edging is starting to fray. I was hoping to have it repaired because everyone always says I look good in it. But the estimate from a tailor was close to $100. I decided to order a new one from Cole Haan since it only costs a little over $200 and I hoped it would last me the 10 years the other one did. The problem is that it really just doesn't look nearly as good on me. Is there a more inexpensive way to have the old one repaired and/or to ensure that the threadbare lining and zipper won't give way months after the job? Do I have to give up on my old jacket?

A I can understand why you would seriously consider repairing a jacket that looks so good on you and that you obviously feel cool wearing. "Cool" is a very hard quality to come by and not something that is easy, or even wise, to give up lightly. If you feel good in the jacket, and it seems apparent that you do, I would say you should go to any lengths to repair it including spending so much on it. Certainly many men understand the concept in terms of a classic car.

A man's clothes are supposed to do more than cover his bareness and keep him warm. They should add to his feeling of individuality. If a garment that you can buy -- or better yet, one you already own -- gives you that wonderful feeling of self-assurance, then surely it is something to be treasured and not discarded ... even if it requires an expensive repair job.

While others might suggest that buying a new jacket is more logical, as you seem to have learned from your new (well-respected) Cole Haan replacement, you have no assurance that a new one will bring you compliments and give you the same sense of looking your best. That brings up an element of dressing well that many men are not sure how to handle. How do you know what is flattering and really looks great on you -- not on the model in the magazine ad or online images, but on you -- when you walk into the office or are seated at a restaurant? Here are a few useful points to keep in mind.

  1. Learn to trust your mirror to know what colors and cuts looks good on you. On some days, after getting dressed in the morning, you may look in the mirror and say to yourself, "Wow! I look pretty good today." And we all know those other days when you see your reflection and ask yourself, "'Can I possibly look this bad?'" It's usually a matter of color. Certain colors near the face do great things for you. Remember which shades made you look your best, and wear them often.

  2. Listen to what others say about what you are wearing. Occasionally, other people will tell you. When you receive two or more unsolicited compliments on what you are wearing, you know that what you are wearing is a good color for you. If, on the other hand, you come to work in what you feel is a well-pulled-together combination, and people ask, "'Were you up late last night?",' you are probably wearing the wrong colors.

  3. Carry that info, and the knowledge that there is more, into your next purchase. Often, it is not only the color, but also the cut and the fit that make a difference in how good you look in a garment. My guess is that it is some combination of these elements that makes your jacket such a favorite. The surest way to find a perfect look that will make you happy for years is to do what so few men are willing to do: force yourself, when shopping for any garment, to actually try it on and check yourself out in the mirror. I cannot tell you exactly why, but I can tell you that when you do more than merely hold something up to you and look in the mirror, but really try it on, you will discover what is flattering to you. Your face "lights up" and tells you that the garment is the right choice.

  4. Spend just as wisely on tailoring. Do not try to find a bargain tailor; he could ruin your jacket. You are smart to be concerned about these repairs -- you wouldn't take a 1960's Mustang to Jiffy Lube for an engine overall just because you have a coupon. Go to the best tailor you can find. Ask a well-dressed friend for a recommendation. Or, if you have a skilled upscale dry cleaner, he probably has a skilled tailor working on the premises.

Just like that Mustang, eventually you may be replacing nearly every part of it; specifically, get a new lining, new zipper, new fabric edging for the pocket -- if you want the repair to have any lasting power. Yes, repairs on older quality clothes are a good investment; they will hold up for years. I''m sure you will enjoy looking great every time you wear your newly restored jacket.

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High Profile on 04/15/2018

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