RESTAURANT REVIEW + PHOTOS: Fly to Whole Hog for the chicken wings

I might never eat barbecue again at Whole Hog Cafe after recent visits to its newest location

Not because the championship barbecue is anything less than great.

But because the chicken wings are so good.

Yes, chicken wings. At Whole Hog Cafe.

The outlet opened in September at 14524 Cantrell Road -- in the former Main Cheese/Sai Gon/Gina's Sushi space of that difficult-to-navigate-and-exit west Little Rock strip -- just 8.5 miles west of its flagship Cantrell location in Riverdale. An existing large fryer, vent-a-hood and grease trap made it possible for the new Whole Hog to add wings and fries. (Transitions columnist Eric E. Harrison previously reported "A far-flung New Jersey location also does wings; the Whole Hog in Bryant does fries.")

And, oh, those wings!

I'm not usually one to get all hot and bothered over the bar staple. Typically most wings are fatty, flabby, greasy and kind of gross -- even if I like hot sauce and embrace any excuse to eat blue cheese dressing.

But these Whole Hog wings (10 for $10.99, 25 for $24.99, 50 for $48.99) are wholly something else. They're sizable, meaty and superbly seasoned. They can be ordered dry or with a choice of sauces: Classic Hot Buffalo, Honey BBQ, Honey Volcano or their "World Champion 'Competition' Wing Sauce." And they come with choice of ranch or blue cheese, sometimes served in a plastic cup, sometimes served right in the Kraft package. Ask for both and you might be charged 49 cents for extra dressing, depending on who is working the register. The wings do not come with celery, which would be nice -- it's the only improvement we could offer.

The first visit, my dinner date and I ordered them as an appetizer, as an afterthought, really. They were bathed in the Classic Hot Buffalo, and I've not been able to order them any other way. They were fantastic.

They were habit-forming.

Like a junkie returning to its dealer, desperate for another hit, I've been back to Whole Hog for wings.

Twice.

By myself.

Admitting it is the first step.

Each time, the chicken wings were just as fabulous as the first experience. Though there was one trip that wasn't fabulous. I called ahead to order them, but when I arrived and stood in the counter space for to-go orders, I was told I'd have to get in the big line of people placing their orders. Seriously? Eventually, a sensible staffer called me out of line and gave me my food, which was already waiting.

That was the only time I encountered a wait at this location. It hasn't been busy the nights I went, suggesting that perhaps more people use it more for carryout (less of a chance of smelling like barbecue after) instead of opting to dine in the clean, casual spot with a six-pack of barbecue sauces and a full napkin dispenser on each table. It also features umbrella-covered patio seating with a view of the parking lot.

Or maybe people haven't discovered it's there. The location did, after all, see three other restaurants come and go. And, it's not like there aren't other Whole Hogs in the vicinity; there's another in west Little Rock on West Markham Street, as well as the original. Other locations are in North Little Rock, Conway, Bryant, Fort Smith, Fayetteville, Rogers and New Jersey (two) and New Mexico (three).

But, this is the only one around serving those amazing chicken wings.

Oh yeah. The barbecue. Whole Hog's is first-class, of course. And it's available in sandwiches, platters, combinations, by the pound, on baked potatoes, on salads, on nachos, on "Hog Fries" and in party packs. As for entrees, prices range from $6.49 for a pulled pork sandwich ($9.99 with a drink and one side) up to $26.49 for a full slab of ribs with two sides and cornbread.

To sample a bit of everything, we shared an Ultimate Platter ($23.99), which featured a bit of everything: classic pulled pork, tender beef brisket, slightly dry pulled chicken, four saucy ribs, three sides and two pieces of cornbread. We chose the standard cole slaw, tasty baked beans and the lush, sour-creamy baked potato salad. The ample portion of protein was way too much for two to share, especially after the wings; most went home in a box.

While the meats are flavorful enough on their own, it's always fun to play around with Whole Hog's six numbered sauces. These days, I'm partial to the No. 2 -- "Tangy & Slightly Spicy" -- and the No. 4 -- "Southern Vinegar & Spice. There's also a seventh sauce, the Volcano, that must be requested and comes with a warning: "Eat at your own risk!" I've never dared. But maybe next time.

Oh, who am I kidding? Next time I will get the wings.

But to be different, I might branch out and get the Wing Plate: six wings, two sides and cornbread for $10.49.

Weekend on 11/23/2017