Best of the bird: Dress them up a little and skinless, boneless chicken breasts can make a meal

Hummus-Crusted Chicken on Vegetables / The Charlotte Observer/TNS/DIEDRA LAIRD
Hummus-Crusted Chicken on Vegetables / The Charlotte Observer/TNS/DIEDRA LAIRD

When you need to turn out a fast, tasty and healthful weeknight dinner, it ought to be so easy to reach for skinless, boneless chicken breasts.

They cook quickly, you can do endless things with them and, while they cost a little more than other cuts, what you get is all meat, no waste.

Except for the downsides: Skinless, boneless chicken breasts can be boring. If you overcook them, you end up sawing away at a plank of compressed leather. With no bone or skin, you don't get much to carry flavor, either. (Yes, I know -- you could cook a skin-on breast and throw away the golden, crispy skin, but let's face it: It's golden, crispy skin. Who has the willpower to resist that?)

I decided to hit the kitchen with a big tray of naked breasts and figure out what really makes a difference in turning them into fantastic weeknight dinners.

I tried several cooking methods and came up with five dishes that use things you either have on hand or can grab in a supermarket on the way home, and still have a shopping basket light enough to use the express lane.

TIPS FOR YOUR BREASTS

No matter how you flavor and cook them, these are always worth doing for the best skinless, boneless chicken breasts.

Thaw smartly. Skinless, boneless chicken breasts can be expensive, but there's no waste. If you buy them frozen and you don't have time to thaw them in the refrigerator overnight, take out the number of breasts that you need, put them in a resealable plastic bag and put them in a sink of cold water. They'll thaw in 30 minutes.

Pound. Breasts tend to be uneven, with a thick end and a skinny end, which makes it hard to cook the thick end without overcooking the thin end. To cook them evenly, it's worth the extra step. Place them on a sheet of plastic wrap, cover with another sheet of wrap and give them a few whacks with a kitchen mallet, focusing on the thicker end. You don't have to beat them flat, just even them out a little.

Pat dry. You'll get a much better sear and a better chance of getting that nice golden color. It sounds like a contradiction: You want them moist, right? But you'll get that if the meat is dry on the outside so it develops a better sear, sealing the moisture inside where you want it.

Use a thermometer. An undercooked breast isn't safe, but an overcooked one isn't tasty. Use an instant-read thermometer to make sure the thickest end gets to 155 degrees. Carry-over heat will take it to 165 degrees, which is safe, without drying them out.

Hummus-Crusted Chicken on Vegetables

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 to 3 cups diced butternut squash

1 medium onion, peeled, halved and thinly sliced

Salt and ground black pepper

1 lemon

4 skinless, boneless chicken breasts

1 cup any hummus

1 teaspoon smoked paprika

Heat oven to 450 degrees.

Place the oil in a 13-by-9-inch baking dish. Add the squash and onions, stirring them around to coat with the oil, then spread them in an even layer. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Thinly slice half of the lemon and lay the slices over the vegetables.

Season the chicken breasts with salt and pepper, then place on top of the vegetables. Cover each breast with hummus, spreading to the edges. Squeeze the juice from remaining lemon half over the whole dish, then sprinkle with a little smoked paprika.

Bake for 30 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through, the hummus coating is lightly browned and the vegetables are fork-tender.

Makes 4 servings.

Recipe adapted from www.gimmesomeoven.com

Oh, my. The version of pimento cheese you use is important. A thick, coarse style is important so it doesn't melt too fast. I used Palmetto Cheese in testing. Some will still leak out, but you can push it back in (and if any of it browns, who doesn't love browned cheese?).

Pimento-Cheese-Stuffed Baked Chicken Breasts

2 teaspoons olive oil, divided use

1 egg

1/2 to 1 cup panko or seasoned breadcrumbs

2 to 4 skinless, boneless chicken breasts

1/4 to 1/2 cup pimento cheese, prepared or homemade

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil or parchment paper and coat lightly with 1 teaspoon olive oil.

Place the egg in a shallow bowl and lightly beat. Spread the breadcrumbs on a plate.

Place each chicken breast on a work surface. Holding it flat with your hand, use a sharp knife to cut into it from the side but not all the way through, opening it like a book. Spread about 2 tablespoons pimento cheese inside, then fold over the top and press to close.

Turn the breast smooth side down, and place in the beaten egg and then into the crumbs, just coating the top (smooth) side. Place on the lined pan, crumb side up. Repeat with the remaining breasts.

Drizzle each breast with a little oil and bake for 30 minutes, until the cheese is bubbling and the chicken is cooked through.

Makes 2 to 4 servings.

Years ago, there was a very popular chicken dish with a sauce made from apricot preserves, chili sauce and dried onion soup mix. That was the inspiration here, skipping the salty soup mix for Dijon mustard and a little garlic powder. It makes beautifully glazed chicken for slicing and serving on a bed of rice.

Apricot-Chili Glazed Chicken Breasts

4 skinless, boneless chicken breasts

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup apricot preserves

1/4 cup bottled chili sauce

1 1/2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 teaspoon butter

Heat oven to 350 degrees.

Pat the chicken dry and sprinkle with salt. If you have time, refrigerate, uncovered, for 30 minutes (optional).

In a small saucepan, combine the apricot preserves, chili sauce, mustard and garlic powder. Heat over medium-low, stirring, until the preserves are melted and it's all combined.

Heat the vegetable oil and butter in an oven-safe skillet over medium-low heat until it shimmers. Pat the chicken dry with paper towels and place each breast in the pan, smooth side down. Cook for about 4 minutes, until it's starting to brown underneath.

Turn the chicken breasts and pour the sauce over them, making sure you coat the chicken well. Place the skillet in the oven and bake about 20 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through. Serve with the thickened sauce in the pan drizzled over it.

Makes 4 servings.

Chicken With Goat Cheese Vinaigrette and Pasta

4 skinless, boneless chicken breasts

Salt and ground pepper

6 tablespoons olive oil, divided use

1 teaspoon butter

About 6 ounces uncooked penne pasta

1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

2 ounces (1/2 cup) crumbled fresh goat cheese

About 1 cup small tomatoes (grape or cherry), halved or quartered

Place the chicken breasts between sheets of plastic wrap and pound with a kitchen mallet to flatten the thick end and create an even thickness. Pat dry, sprinkle with salt and pepper and set aside.

Bring a pot of salted water to boil. Add the pasta, stirring so it doesn't stick, and cook as directed, about 10 to 11 minutes, and drain.

While the pasta is cooking, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and 1 teaspoon butter in a skillet over medium-low heat. Place the chicken in the skillet, smooth side down, and cook about 9 minutes, until golden underneath. Turn the chicken and spread the tomatoes around the skillet. Continue cooking, turning the tomatoes occasionally, about 6 minutes or until the chicken is done.

In a small bowl, whisk together the remaining olive oil, parsley and pepper flakes. Fold in the crumbled goat cheese.

Divide between plates. Top each serving with a chicken breast and some of the tomatoes. Drizzle the goat cheese dressing over the chicken and serve.

Makes 4 servings.

Adapted from realsimple.com

Creamy Balsamic Skillet Chicken

1 1/2 pounds skinless, boneless chicken breasts

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon butter

1 small yellow onion, sliced

2 small cloves garlic, minced

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

¾ teaspoon kosher salt, divided use

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper, divided use

1/2 cup chicken broth

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

8 ounces mushrooms (stem ends trimmed), quartered

1/4 cup heavy cream

1 1/2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves OR 1/2 teaspoon dried

Cut each chicken breast lengthwise into 2 or 3 strips, then cut each strip in half crosswise. Cover with plastic wrap and pound lightly to make small cutlets. Set aside.

In a wide skillet, heat the oil and butter over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, about 4 minutes, then add the garlic and cook 1 minute.

Combine the flour, 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper on a plate. Dip each piece of chicken in flour and place in the skillet with the onions and garlic. Cook, turning occasionally, until just a little golden and browned but not cooked all the way through. Remove the chicken pieces to a plate and set aside.

Add the chicken broth and balsamic vinegar to the pan, then add the mushrooms and remaining salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer, scraping up any browned bits and turning the mushrooms. Cook 2 or 3 minutes.

Add the cream, then return all the chicken pieces to the pan, turning to coat with the sauce. Simmer about 3 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through and the sauce thickens a little. Sprinkle with the thyme and serve.

Makes servings.

Recipe adapted from The Weeknight Dinner Cookbook by Mary Younkin

Food on 03/29/2017

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