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Top tailors can replace cuffs, but take note of shirt's style

Fabric from the tails of a striped or solid color shirt can be used to make a replacement collar for those who feel their cuffs or collars are past their prime.
Fabric from the tails of a striped or solid color shirt can be used to make a replacement collar for those who feel their cuffs or collars are past their prime.

Q. I have a few shirts that are becoming worn on the cuffs and I'm wondering if it is possible (and makes any sense) to have my tailor replace the cuffs? I think fixing them would shorten them, but new cuffs on otherwise still solid shirts would give these favorites another year. And, if so, can I go with a different fabric/color? In the '90s there were shirts with white collars and cuffs that reeked of Wall Street, but I'm thinking just different cuffs might be fine and unique?

A. I would not recommend just replacing the cuffs on a dress shirt with something different. It would look strange ... and wrong. I also would not recommend taking your shirts to the neighborhood tailor. He is not really equipped to deal with professional shirt alterations. But you do have a few options. Skilled shirt surgeons can cut down oversize collars, shorten sleeves, taper the sides, replace worn collars and cuffs, do monogramming and in general work their magic to bring your favorites back to life.

Before we completely discount your unique idea about using a different fabric just on the cuffs of your shirt, it could work on a colored or striped shirt that you plan to wear as a fun casual/weekend garment. In fact, I saw something similar in a Robert Graham designed sport shirt from Neiman Marcus. The shirt's body was a light purple pattern and the turned-back cuff was lined in a red-and-white stripe.

In terms of addressing the tailoring and not being as fashion-forward as different patterns, the easiest shirt cuffs to repair are French cuffs. They can simply be turned. The next easiest repair is a white dress shirt, especially if you happen to have three in the same fabric. Using the fabric from one to replace the collars and cuffs can create two perfect shirts. Or, if a few of your white shirts need new cuffs, they can use their own white fabric; it will oxidize after a couple of washings so the fabrics will look alike.

Fabric from the tails of a striped or solid color shirt can be used to make a replacement collar, but there is not enough fabric to make new cuffs. The worn collar alone or both the collar and the cuffs can be replaced with a contrasting solid white alternative. But, as you mentioned, some men feel that the white collar-and-cuffs look is too Wall Street. You seem to be one of them. And a lot of others must agree with you, because, even though both styles are less popular than they once were, white contrast-collar shirts are more popular than the more formal white-collar-and-cuffs look.

However, before you do anything along these lines, it is important to pay attention to the style of shirt you have. If it is old enough to have a full, blousy cut, you don't want to update it with a more current collar that is much shorter and, thus, not in keeping with the style of the shirt. Always keep the elements in harmony.

Because shirts have gone up so much in price, and since you seem fond of some of yours that have seen better days, it certainly could be a wise decision to have them repaired. Now that fine shirts often cost from $70 to $250, the decision can be an easy one.

And here's one more option. You might be willing to move those shirts of yours from a dress shirt category to a more casual weekend look. Then you can wear them unbuttoned, open at the neck, with the sleeves rolled up one or two turns ... and you can enjoy them for another year or two.

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High Profile on 03/26/2017

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