National Park Pedaling

Riders Bill Kennedy (from left) Dan Ferritor, Karen Mowry and Tom Mowry roll along Arkansas 43, along the Buffalo National River on Sept. 2.
Riders Bill Kennedy (from left) Dan Ferritor, Karen Mowry and Tom Mowry roll along Arkansas 43, along the Buffalo National River on Sept. 2.

Cooler weather and a hint of color in the leaves make autumn a prime time to visit two national park sites in Northwest Arkansas: Pea Ridge National Military Park and Buffalo National River.

This is especially true this year as the country celebrates the 100th anniversary of the National Park Service.

Fort Smith Historic Site

The northwest corner of the state has a third national park: the Fort Smith National Historic Site. Visitors see remnants of two forts built on Arkansas’ border with Indian Territory, now Oklahoma. The park also features stories about the Trail of Tears and about “Hanging” Judge Isaac Parker.

— National Park Service

Most come to these parks by car, but once there, both sites offer opportunities for easy pedaling on bicycles over meandering routes suitable for riders of all abilities. There's little vehicle traffic along either route.

Two rides earlier this month were a joy and a chance to take part in the centennial year of the Park Service.

Hopping on a bicycle at Pea Ridge National Military Park packs history, nature, scenery and exercise into a single bike ride. The Battle of Pea Ridge raged at this Civil War battlefield in March 1862. Today, a 7-mile tour road guides visitors in vehicles and on bikes through the 4,300-acre national park located 10 miles northeast of Rogers, or five miles east of Pea Ridge. The park entrance is along U.S. 62.

A loop around the park makes a nice family ride that kids can manage. Gear heads looking for a workout can zip around the loop as many times as their legs will let them.

Joel McCourt knows the route well. He's taken youngsters with the Youth Strategies group for rides at the park.

"It's a fantastic loop. It's nice to have a place to ride where there aren't many cars. You can ride it as a workout, too. There's one pretty good climb," McCourt said.

"Even the drive out there is nice. And you're already half way to Eureka Springs, so there are a lot of other fun things to do close by," he said.

A stop at the visitor center is in order to see the short movie that drives home the reason why this national park exists. Hundreds were killed or wounded in the Battle of Pea Ridge that took place in the cold and snow of early March. Landmarks mentioned in the movie come to life on a ride through the park.

Riders may notice some areas of the park that are being cleared of cedar trees. The work is an effort to return the park to its original appearance in 1862, said Kevin Eads, park superintendent. The project started several years ago.

"We're about 85 percent done. In all the places where cedars have been removed, native grasses have sprung up," Eads said. "We've seen a real uptick in the quail population here."

Work will begin soon on Elkhorn Tavern, a centerpiece of the park, which served as a hospital during the Civil War battle. The historic two-story dwelling will get a new porch, a new roof and siding.

Cyclists enjoy the park mostly in the morning and evening, Eads said. All park entrance fees apply. Regulars often purchase an annual pass, which offers unlimited entry.

Another battle of sorts took place at Buffalo National River. Not everyone was pleased with the idea of making the Buffalo the nation's first national river to be administered by the Park Service. The fight ended in 1972 when then-President Richard Nixon signed legislation creating the Buffalo National River.

Paddling is the most popular activity at the Buffalo. Pedaling is an option, particularly in Boxley Valley on the banks of the Buffalo. A 16-mile ride from Ponca, through Boxley and back to Ponca, is fairly level and highly scenic.

During a morning ride on Sept. 2, Bill Kennedy counted the number of cars seen between Boxley and Ponca. He only needed one hand. A group of five riders sampled the route including Tom and Karen Mowry of Nob Hill, along with Kennedy and former University of Arkansas Chancellor Dan Ferritor, both of Fayetteville.

"This is one ride where it looks hillier in a car than it really is on a bike," Ferritor said. He deemed it a ride suitable for beginners and families, though there is some vehicle traffic.

The group started the ride at the Ponca river access and pedaled west toward Boxley. There's some up and down, but no lung buster climbs. The route really levels out when riders turn south on Arkansas 21 and ride through Boxley. The highway is flat as plywood. It crosses the Buffalo and leads to the Buffalo River Trail access. Ride farther and there's a steep climb of two or three miles.

A break was in order, under shade trees at the Buffalo River Trail access. Then on for more paradise biking. The crisp, clear morning made the beauty of the Buffalo even more lovely on the ride back to Ponca.

Some days a rider doesn't want to quit and this was one of those days. The group pedaled through downtown Ponca on Arkansas 43, but turned around where another wheezer of a climb starts at the edge of town.

Back at the river, Kennedy checked his odometer. They'd pedaled 16.6 miles, mostly on the edge of a national river in the 100th year of the National Park Service.

Flip Putthoff can be reached at [email protected] or on Twitter @NWAFlip

Sports on 09/20/2016

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