Egg noodles. I love this innocuous pasta. The rich, tender noodles comfort me when I have a cold, have suffered a challenging day or need to recover from a week of "research eating." When they are buttery and cheesy, or topped with chicken paprikash, my childhood feels close. Fried crispy and topped with vegetables, my first trip to New York's Chinatown comes to mind. Brothy and enlivened with bold seasonings, I recall my first Tokyo ramen shop alongside a dear brother.
Perhaps those egg noodles are the reason a great big bowl of ramen proves so appealing. Not the cheap mushy instant ramen of college days; rather, the toothsome noodles nestled in rich broth, alongside chunks of vegetables, egg, roasted pork or chicken. Wow, I enjoy this hearty bowl any time of the day or night, cold weather or warm. Let's make it at home.
Ramen's convoluted history encompasses Chinese noodles and Japanese tastes. The story goes that Chinese cooks in Japan seasoned egg noodles in meat broth with soy sauce for a savory snack. The dish gained popularity in the 1950s for its low price and simplicity. Ever since, cooks happily tailor the combo into gourmet bowls with international influences. There are thousands of combinations all captured by the name "ramen."
Here are other ideas for additions to your ramen bowl:
• Pan-seared, sliced, fully cooked pork belly
• Thinly sliced roasted pork or country-style pork ribs
• Grilled or steamed shrimp
• Grilled or pan-seared pieces of superfirm tofu
• Grilled or pan-charred sliced sweet onion or whole green onions or knob onions
• Grilled or broiled sliced eggplant
Shichimi togarashi is a Japanese chile pepper spice blend. Use a combination of salt, pepper and crushed red pepper flakes if it is unavailable.
Shichimi Chicken Ramen Bowls
4 cups Shortcut Broth (see notes)
2 tablespoons shiro miso, optional
1 to 2 tablespoons soy sauce to taste
1 to 3 tablespoons chile paste or Korean gochujang, optional
1/2 cup thinly sliced fresh shiitake mushroom caps (no stems)
3 medium egg noodle nests, about 5 ounces total
2 Shichimi Chicken Thighs, thinly sliced (recipe follows)
1 Soy Wasabi Hard-Cooked Egg, halved (see notes)
2 radishes, very thinly sliced
1/4 cup sliced bamboo shoots
2 green onions, charred in a skillet, chopped
Small handful fresh bean sprouts
Chopped fresh cilantro
Shichimi togarashi pepper blend
Heat broth in small saucepan until hot. Season to taste with miso, soy sauce and chile paste. The broth should be highly seasoned. Add mushrooms and simmer over low heat.
Have all the remaining ingredients ready and near the cooking surface. Fill 2 deep soup bowls with very hot water to heat the bowls.
Meanwhile, for noodles, heat a large pot of salted water to a boil. Drop noodles into the water; cook, stirring, until al dente (tender but still a bit firm in the center), about 3 minutes. Use tongs or a slotted wire basket to remove noodles to a plate. Save the cooking water for later.
When ready to serve, bring the noodle cooking water to a boil again and dunk the noodles back in to reheat, about 20 seconds. Dump the hot water out of the soup bowls. Divide the hot noodles between the heated bowls. Top each with half of the sliced chicken, egg, radish, bamboo shoots, green onions and bean sprouts. Gently ladle hot broth over all. Sprinkle with cilantro. Serve right away. Pass the pepper blend at the table.
Makes 2 servings.
Notes:
Shortcut broth: Simmer 1 quart of store-bought chicken, vegetable or seafood broth with 2 tablespoons of mirin or dry vermouth, 1 or 2 tablespoons miso paste, 1 or 2 thin slices fresh ginger and 1 or 2 teaspoons soy sauce in a saucepan for 10 minutes. Strain before using.
Soy-wasabi eggs: Mix 3 tablespoons soy sauce and 1 teaspoon wasabi paste in a small dish. Add 1 or 2 peeled hard-cooked eggs. Let soak, turning eggs often, 10 to 20 minutes until eggs are golden in color. Remove from soy bath.
Shichimi Chicken Thighs
2 boneless chicken thighs
Shichimi togarashi pepper blend
Sesame seeds
Finely sliced green onions
Heat a grill to medium heat. Or heat a broiler to medium high.
Meanwhile, generously sprinkle chicken thighs on all sides with shichimi.
Grill chicken directly over the heat source (or on a pan set 8 inches from the broiler), turning once, until almost firm when pressed with your finger or a spatula, usually 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from grill. Sprinkle generously with sesame seeds and green onions.
Food on 09/07/2016