Q. I have a few dozen shirts and ties, but only two pairs of business dress shoes: one black and one dark brown. They are both comfortable and in good shape, is there any reason that I need to add another pair? I'd rather spend that money on a few pairs of good pants for the fall.
A. When your budget is limited, it makes sense to establish priorities.
What are the key indicators that a man really knows how to dress with style and taste? My answer has always been, "His shoes, his watch, and his tie." Although shoes may not seem to have as immediate an impact as a prestigious watch, they are important. Consider two men wearing the same $800 suit. One wears an inexpensive pair of black demi-boots; the other wears Allen Edmonds black cap-toe oxfords. They project two vastly different impressions.
The best advice you will get about shoes (besides buying the best ones you can afford, or maybe even ones that are a somewhat better than you can afford) is to be sure you do not wear them two days in a row. Allow time for your shoes to rest a few days between wearings. With only two pairs of dress shoes, this is not easy to do. I suggest you buy one more pair before expanding the rest of your wardrobe.
Two kinds of shoes are acceptable for the world of business: lace-up and slip-on. Both are crafted of smooth, supple leathers, and both are best when they are simple, straightforward, and free of unnecessary decorative touches. The colors that men in positions of authority wear are black, dark brown, and mahogany (or cordovan). Only those colors are proper for business footwear. Navy, gray, and tan are unacceptable.
Lace-up shoes, in general, are known as oxfords. Dressier ones have slightly thinner soles and heels, supple leather uppers, and several eyelets for the laces. Heavy, waterproof shoes suitable for a walk through the countryside are not necessary for a day spent in a carpeted, air-conditioned office.
Wingtip oxfords are classic. The hallmark perforations on their caps and sides are made by various manufacturers in distinctive patterns, one differing ever so slightly from the other. Black wingtips are exactly right for any dressy dark blue or gray suit; brown wingtips are slightly more casual.
The cap-toe oxford has a thick, rounded welt across the toe. It, too, is appropriate with business suits, but it also works with less dressy looks, such as blazers and sport coats. Wingtips and cap-toes are the only two styles of shoes on which perforations are appropriate.
The plain-toe oxford is an anomaly. In cordovan or rich dark brown, it is perfect with brown tweeds or a tan summer suits. Yet, in black, it is even dressier than either of the other oxford styles -- and can double as footwear for black-tie attire.
Slip-on shoes, though they are not as formal as lace-ups, are considered inappropriate for business these days.
The basic, casual classic loafer is what use to be called a penny loafer (but worn without pennies).
Tassel loafers substitute two small leather tassels for the penny band on classic loafers and are a tad dressier. In black, they are more dressy than the same shoe in brown.
Gucci has become a generic name for loafers with a piece of brass -- actually a horse bit -- over the instep. However, the metal decoration makes them inappropriate for formal business or evening wear.
Looking objectively at the two pairs of shoes you already own should help you decide which pair you want to add to your collection. Having invested a considerable amount in good shoes, go the extra step and buy a pair of cedar shoe trees for each pair. Frequent polishing is another essential. These two easy chores will guarantee years of top-rate condition for any shoe that was constructed properly in the first place.
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High Profile on 08/28/2016