RESTAURANT REVIEW: Samurai Japanese Steakhouse & Sushi Bar continues the fight

The Samurai Seafood Feast, served here with fried rice and vegetables, includes shrimp, scallops and lobster tail.
The Samurai Seafood Feast, served here with fried rice and vegetables, includes shrimp, scallops and lobster tail.

We couldn't believe that it has been eight whole years since Samurai Japanese Steakhouse & Sushi Bar opened in Little Rock's Shackleford Crossings Shopping Center.

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A chef prepares hibachi dinners at Samurai Japanese Steakhouse & Sushi Bar.

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Special to the Democrat-Gazette

At lunch, Samurai Japanese Steakhouse & Sushi Bar serves bento boxes of sushi rolls with gyoza, miso soup and salad.

And we couldn't believe we hadn't returned since our initial review -- also eight whole years ago.

Samurai Japanese Steakhouse & Sushi Bar

Address: Shackleford Crossings Shopping Center, 2604 S. Shackleford Road, Little Rock (with another location in Benton)

Hours: 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5-9:30 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 4:30-10:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday, noon-3 p.m. and 5-9:30 p.m. Sunday

Cuisine: Japanese

Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V

Alcoholic beverages: Full bar

Reservations: Large parties

Wheelchair accessible: Yes

Carryout: Yes

samuraisteakhousear…

(501) 224-5533

But after two recent visits to Samurai, which specializes in hibachi dinners, sushi and bento lunch combinations, it became evident why we didn't hurry back. It's fairly forgettable, and so many other restaurants (including two Asian options, the excellent Zangna Thai and the budget-friendly Panda Garden Restaurant, which serves sushi on its buffet) surround it. Not to mention, there's no shortage of central Arkansas restaurants where we can get our teppanyaki on.

It seems we're not the only people who have forgotten tastefully appointed (except for that tear we noticed in the carpet) Samurai. It was dead at 12:30 p.m. on a weekday during what should have been the lunch rush. It was a bit busier on a weekday evening when a military branch brought a busload of recruits for hibachi meals.

There was only one other occupied table in the regular dining room at lunch, so we expected a straightforward, simple meal. But we'd endure several mix-ups.

My friend ordered a sushi roll combination ($10.95 two rolls, $13.95 three rolls) served with gyoza, miso soup, a house salad and orange slices; she selected the salmon-based Alaska, Spicy Tuna and Crunchy Crab rolls. But instead of a crab roll, she received a Shrimp Tempura. She shrugged: "Ah, well, at least I like shrimp." Still, she summed up her meal saying, "Nothing was wow. And I have had wow rolls in Little Rock. I know it can be done."

Meanwhile, my meal -- a bento box containing Chicken Teriyaki ($10.95), California rolls, a house salad, steamed rice and gyoza (preceeded by miso soup) -- was just what I ordered. Only it wasn't my meal! It was supposed to be served to the man at the other table! Staff members fussed at one another when they realized the mistake. Oops. The hungry man insisted I keep the entree, while he watched his companion eat.

I hope the portion he finally received was better. The thin breast of sesame-seed-sprinkled chicken was dry in texture and in taste; that there was so little sauce rendered the steamed rice unappetizing. The three pieces of California roll (quasi-crab and avocado) were nothing special, nor was the salad -- wet with a dressing that wasn't nearly as gingery or enjoyable as other Japanese places' house dressings. The miso, with floating bits of seaweed and green onion, was standard.

Prior to our entrees, we shared a Play Boy Roll ($11.50) of crab and tempura shrimp inside, topped with tuna, salmon and yellowtail. After all, who can resist something with "(Fire)" next to its name? We were intrigued by the creation that came foil-wrapped and flaming, at least until we ate it and it tasted mostly of the alcohol accelerant. Said my friend about this Play Boy: "It was a bit of a letdown. Much like Hugh Hefner must be in real life."

Samurai's sushi menu, also available at the bar or in the hibachi dining room, includes a la carte nigiri, rolls, tempura rolls and special rolls. Dinner combinations range from a $16.95 Sushi Regular (seven pieces sushi with a California roll) to the $52.50 Sushi Love Boat for Two (16 pieces sashimi, 12 pieces sushi, two special rolls).

Hibachi dates without a group are always interesting. Will you be seated with a bunch of loud people? Or couples who feel just as funny? We got both. While other nearby tables filled up with the chatty recruits, we thought we might get a big table all to ourselves. Then a second couple was seated right next to us and no one else ever joined our uncomfortable dinner party for four. Awkward.

Without a big audience or kids, we received dinner without the show. Our chef dutifully prepared our food, performing no tricks other than one obligatory fire burst.

Entrees start at $13.95 for the Hibachi Vegetable Feast and stop at $37.95 for the Samurai Supreme of chicken, shrimp, filet mignon and lobster tail.

To try a bit of everything, my date chose mostly land with the Samurai Trio ($25.50) of chicken, steak and shrimp, while I chose sea with the Samurai Seafood Feast ($28.50) of shrimp, scallops and lobster tail. We both requested the Samurai Fried Rice ($2.50). And both meals began with a house salad and clear onion broth with shavings of mushroom and green onions, and included a medley of hibachi-grilled vegetables (onion, mushroom, zucchini, carrot and broccoli).

My date was content with his food, though I thought the bite of steak I stole was on the tough side.

But I've reviewed enough cling-clang-bang Japanese joints to know my slightly stubborn and rubbery shellfish was just so-so. And the fried rice, which I expected to be buttery, salty and indulgent, didn't delight. While the ginger sauce helped a bit, the other sauce -- usually a zesty mustard -- just tasted like watery mayonnaise. There was plenty left on my plate, but I chose to leave these leftovers.

Still, no one finishes a hibachi dinner at Samurai without a sweet taste in their mouths. Meals are followed with a serving of sunny orange wedges.

Weekend on 08/25/2016

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