Upper Buffalo River offers attractions away from water

The Buffalo National River at the Ponca low-water bridge is busy with floating activity in higher water, but quiet when the river slows to a trickle during summer.
The Buffalo National River at the Ponca low-water bridge is busy with floating activity in higher water, but quiet when the river slows to a trickle during summer.

There's not a canoe or kayak to be seen on the upper Buffalo National River in the heat of summer. The stream becomes a trickle along much of its course between Ponca and Pruitt access points. Trying to float that stretch in August would be more walking than paddling.

photo

A cabin built by “Beaver Jim” Villines in 1880 can be seen on the south side of the Ponca low-water bridge over the Buffalo River. The cabin and outbuildings are a short hike south of the bridge.

photo

Logs hewed by hand are the building blocks of 19th century cabins visitors can see.

photo

Ponca Elk Education Center has all things elk, as well as furbearer hides visitors are encouraged to touch.

photo

The upper Buffalo River may be too low to float during much of summer, but it is inviting for swimming. Several good places to swim are located on the river in the Steel Creek campground.

There's still plenty to view and do at the river during summer. There are elk to see, old homesteads to visit and swimming holes for a cool dip. A summertime hike might be in order on the Buffalo River Trail, which is shaded much of the way.

The Ponca Elk Education Center is open 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., Thursday through Monday. Admission is free.

A trip to the Buffalo River in the Ponca area makes a fine day out. Here is a possible itinerary, one that kept a visitor entertained throughout the day.

You'll want to get on the road early to enjoy the pleasant drive to the river, especially if seeing elk is on the agenda. Herds of elk are seen grazing in the meadows between Boxley and Ponca. Best viewing time is between sunrise and 8 a.m., Once the day heats up, elk retreat into the forest for shade and to feed on lush, green vegetation.

There's more to discover about elk later in the day at the Ponca Elk Education Center. We'll stop in at the center later during our visit, to get out of the heat and savor some air conditioning. First, there is history to see.

Travelers notice an old-time homestead beside Arkansas 43 near the Ponca access along the Buffalo River. It's one of two homesteads that visitors can see in the Ponca area.

The cabin seen beside the highway was built by William Villines around 1850. There is a small parking area and kiosk that tells the history of this homestead. Signs during this particular visit indicated work was taking place on the homestead buildings and asked visitors to explore from a distance.

Another cabin and outbuildings can be seen across the river on the south side of the Ponca low-water bridge. It's an easy walk to the homestead of "Beaver Jim" Villines, son of William Villines. Beaver Jim was known as a skilled trapper.

Beaver Jim built his own homestead in 1880. Visitors can get up close to the cabin and outbuildings, but aren't allowed to go inside. It's fascinating to see the logs cut and shaped by hand so they fit firm and snug to form solid cabin walls.

Another sight to see is an information sign about the Ponca low-water bridge. It's in the shade on the south side of the bridge. The sign has an old photo of busy canoe launching activity at the bridge, taken in the 1960s or 1970s if the vehicles in the picture are a clue.

The Buffalo River Trail meanders past the bridge and offers a walk in the woods upstream or downstream from the bridge.

By now the heat is on. Time to find a spot in the shade for a picnic lunch, then a tour of the Ponca Elk Education Center in "downtown" Ponca, operated by the Arkansas Game and Fish Commission.

Exhibits include taxidermy mounts of elk and black bear. Games test a visitor's knowledge of wildlife. Anything anyone wants to learn about elk is here.

Kids love to touch things, and pick them up for close examination. There are fur bearer hides for touching, elk antlers to pick up and replicas of animal tracks to handle.

Binoculars are available for bird watching in the cool comfort of the elk center.

What about chronic wasting disease, the fatal malady that has been found in Arkansas' elk and deer?

"Almost everyone who comes in here asks about it," said Layne Sleeth, an employee at the center. Visitors can pick up a detailed information sheet from Game and Fish that answers most questions about the disease.

Bull Elk grow a new set of antlers each year. New antlers are covered in velvet that delivers nutrition as the antlers grow. The velvet then dries and bulls scratch off the velvet during August and September, Sleeth said. Mating season in late September and October is prime time to view elk. Bulls sound their mesmerizing bugling song. They fight one another over females in antler to antler skirmishes.

• Air conditioning isn't the only way to cool off. An afternoon swim in the Buffalo River may be in order. The river along Steel Creek recreation area and campground is the place to go.

The area is located off Arkansas 74, about two miles east of Ponca on the highway to Jasper.

A popular swimming hole is near the camping area. A bit of exploration downstream from the canoe launch reveals another fine swimming hole. At the canoe launch, wade across the river, which is easy to do in August, and walk down the gravel bar and around the bend. We had the swimming hole to ourselves on this weekday afternoon. It's a sweet place to take a swim, then relax in a lawn chair and get lost in a book.

Paddling season is over on the upper Buffalo when the river is low. Summer is the season for exploring off the water at the nation's first national river.

Sports on 08/23/2016

Upcoming Events