ARE WE THERE YET?

Belle of Hot Springs cruises Lake Hamilton

The Belle of Hot Springs does daily excursions on Lake Hamilton.
The Belle of Hot Springs does daily excursions on Lake Hamilton.

HOT SPRINGS -- A wag might call it the Mansion Envy Cruise.

Passengers aboard the Belle of Hot Springs go past a multitude of luxurious waterfront homes and condominiums as the excursion vessel makes its leisurely way on Lake Hamilton.

Commentary on the boat's public-address system reports how much -- in millions of dollars -- some of the swankiest properties are worth. In a few cases, mention is made of the fortunate owners -- for instance, Oaklawn Jockey Club President Charles J. Cella. The occasional "For Sale" signs may even stir dreams of ownership.

These residences of the distinctly well-off are a main attraction on the 75-minute afternoon voyage made most every day by the Belle of Hot Springs, which has been operating here for three decades. There are also longer evening cruises.

Given Arkansas' average annual family income of $40,500, among the nation's lowest, the waterfront vistas may evoke F. Scott Fitzgerald's line that the very rich "are different from you and me."

On a clement spring day, any such musing about income disparity will not distract from the pleasures of puttering about a tranquil body of water on an open top deck. The upper-crust sights may also counter certain notions that Hot Springs has seen better days.

And there's good value for middle-class budgets on the deck below, where a bag of freshly made popcorn (a small one, true) goes for a mere $1. That's also the price of a 16-ounce fountain soda on ice. A hot dog is $1.75. Draft beer is $2.50.

Unlike all too many spiels inflicted on tourists, the Belle of Hot Springs' commentary is devoid of ghastly puns or toilet humor. It covers the history of the boat, the lake and the resort city -- going all the way back to Hernando de Soto's gold-seeking expedition in the 16th century.

Built in Dubuque a half-century ago for tourism on an Iowa lake, the Belle was cut into pieces in 1983 and loaded on five large trucks for shipment to Arkansas. Built to carry 400 passengers, it has a maximum speed of 15 miles per hour and a draft of 7 feet. Two short fake smokestacks add a retro tinge.

Among other facts, passengers are told that the outlaws Frank and Jesse James pulled their first stagecoach robbery in Hot Springs in 1874 as part of the Younger Gang.

They're informed that the city's downtown boasts 47 hot springs and two cold springs. They find out that the creation of Lake Hamilton was completed in 1932, ranking it among the oldest of America's man-made bodies of water.

They learn that Al Capone's favorite hotel here was the Arlington. They're reminded that illegal gambling thrived in Hot Springs until the 1960s crackdown, with the buildings across from Bathhouse Row often housing gambling halls on the second floor and bordellos on the top floor.

And if their eyesight is keen, passengers can stoke their dream-home fantasies by jotting down the telephone numbers on those waterfront "For Sale" signs.

The Belle of Hot Springs docks at 5200 Central Ave. (Arkansas 7 South). Sightseeing cruises, departing daily at 1 p.m., last 75 minutes and cost $18.99 ($9.50 for children 12 and under), with a 2.6 percent surcharge for paying with a credit card. Two-hour sunset dinner and dance cruises, leaving at 7, are $19.99 ($9.99 for children) with cash payment. Meals cost extra. Additional cruises are scheduled in July and August. Call (501) 525-4438 or visit belleriverboat.com.

Not far from the excursion boat's dock, a personal favorite for an al fresco lunch in Hot Springs is Fisherman's Wharf, 5101 Central Ave. Oysters on the half-shell are a best bet, as is the grilled grouper sandwich.

Weekend on 05/28/2015

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