Spicy Afghan soup thaws winter’s chill

Aush Vegetable Soup
Aush Vegetable Soup

When the mittens and scarves come out, people come in for Homayon Karimy’s aush. The fragrant, sienna-colored, deeply spiced Afghan soup takes its name from the flat wheat noodles, often spelled “ash,” that turn silken as they cook with vegetables, lemon juice, yogurt and ground sumac. The owner of the Kite Runner Cafe in Arlington, Va., serves this meatless version as well as aush with beef. It’s homey, humble and sure to ward off winter’s chill.

Aush Vegetable Soup

1 to 2 Roma tomatoes, chopped

1/2 small red onion

2 to 3 sprigs cilantro

2 cloves garlic

1/2 jalapeno pepper

1 rib celery, roughly chopped

4 tablespoons olive oil, divided use

2 tablespoons tomato paste

2 teaspoons ground turmeric

1 teaspoon ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon ground red pepper (cayenne)

1 (15-ounce) can no-salt-added chickpeas, rinsed and drained

1 1/2 cups frozen mixed vegetables

1 cup frozen chopped spinach

2 ounces dried long, flat wheat noodles

1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill

1 teaspoon dried mint

1/2 teaspoon ground coriander

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 cup plain, whole-milk yogurt

Optional garnish:

4 tablespoons plain, whole-milk yogurt

1 tablespoon minced cilantro

1 tablespoon minced jalapeno

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Pulse the tomatoes, onion, cilantro, garlic, jalapeno pepper and celery in a food processor until finely chopped. With the motor running, drizzle in 2 tablespoons olive oil, to form a coarse paste.

Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a deep pot over medium heat. Stir in the vegetable paste; cook for a few minutes until softened and fragrant.

Clear a spot at the center of the pot; plop the tomato paste there and cook, undisturbed, for 2 minutes, then stir it in. Season with turmeric, black pepper and cayenne pepper. Cook for a few minutes, then add chickpeas, mixed frozen vegetables and spinach, stirring to incorporate.

Pour in 11/2 cups water. Break up the noodles, letting the pieces fall into the pot, then add 41/2 cups water. Increase the heat to medium-high; once the mixture comes to a boil, cook for 6 minutes, stirring a few times.

Add the dill, dried mint, coriander, lemon juice and yogurt. Reduce the heat to medium; cook 15 to 20 minutes, stirring a few times, until the noodles have softened and soup has thickened. Taste and season with salt and/or black pepper as needed.

If you desire, whisk together the garnish ingredients. Spoon into each hot bowlful of soup, along with more minced cilantro.

Makes 6 servings.

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