Blending bronzer helps avoid faux glow faux pas

Blending is an important key to bottle bronzing and faux glowing.
Blending is an important key to bottle bronzing and faux glowing.

In summertime, many women shelve their foundation and reach for beauty products that proffer a sheer, sun-kissed glow. In unpracticed hands, however, tinted moisturizers and bronzers can streak and pool faster than a chalk mark in a rainstorm.

Finding the right product for your skin is just the start. Blending it is the next part.

"You really have to put the product through the test," says celebrity makeup artist Tomy Rivero, who has worked on the faces of Barbara Corcoran (Shark Tank) and Peter Dinklage (Game of Thrones).

TINTED MOISTURIZERS

Rivero suggests visiting a cosmetic counter or beauty store at the start of a day when you know you will be out and about. Ask for a test application, or buy a travel size of one you'd like to audition. Watch how it responds to fluctuations in temperature and humidity.

"Then and only then will you know how the product wears on your skin," he says. "Do you have to powder, does it disappear, does it oxidize and change tones?"

Don't assume tinted moisturizers will be a lighter alternative to foundation.

"They're still moisture-infused formulas that can really counteract the benefit of a lightweight product during hot summer days because your skin is already producing more than enough moisture," Rivero says.

Read the fine print on the packaging. An oil-free formulation, or one that reads "matte," is better for oily or combination skin.

For a similar veil of coverage, alternatives include water-based foundations or BB (beauty balm) and CC (color correcting) creams with ultraviolet radiation protection, Rivero says.

BRONZERS

Bronzers carry a few pitfalls, especially if your face gains color from the sun through the summer months.

"Skin texture and color gradually change and sometimes in a very uneven way," Rivero said.

Powder bronzers require special caution.

"The colors oxidize and can change to red or more muddy browns instead of enhancing a golden complexion," he says.

Using a powder puff or investing in a kabuki brush can reduce the chance of overdepositing color. Or opt instead for a liquid or gel bronzer to simplify seamless coverage. They often are formulated to withstand high heat and humidity.

Makeup artist Ramy Gafni, who has worked with Rihanna, Taylor Swift and Julianna Margulies, advises applying liquid or gel bronzers in one of two ways.

Either dab on five points of the face: forehead, chin, each cheek and nose, then blend out. Or rub in the palms and "shmear" it all over the face, as you would a standard or tinted moisturizer, said Gafni, who also is author of the new book, How to Fake Real Beauty: Tricks of the Trade to Master Your Makeup (Running Press, $19).

"If the bronzer color looks 'too' anything -- dark, orange, red -- blend away the excess using a cotton pad and apply translucent powder on top of the bronzer to tone down the color," Gafni says. "Be sure to blend bronzer onto your neck too."

Style on 07/28/2015

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