Q I read your article regarding a flowering fruit tree and the care needed in fertilization of it. Two years ago I started a tree from a seed of a small type of orange. It has lived in the house, and it has never flowered. It has thorns on it by each one of the leaves and is now about 6 feet tall. Can you tell me what type of orange tree I have and whether it will ever flower? How I should take care of it to cause it to bloom?
A Many fruit trees, including members of the citrus family, will take anywhere from four to seven years before they begin to bear fruit when grown from seed. The early years are the time when you shape the tree and get it into the form you want. Here in Arkansas, since we can't grow them year-round outdoors, it is best to keep the trees a more manageable size -- so you can move them indoors for the winter. Your tree would benefit from a move outdoors during the summer, where it should thrive. Many citrus plants have thorns. Since you grew it from seed, your guess is as good as mine as to the variety of orange you will get, because commercial oranges are hybrids. But you still have a few more years before you will find out.
Q I planted ivy on my riverbank to help keep the soil from washing out. Over the years the ivy has grown up the trees, covering them. Will the ivy hurt the tree?
A This is a common question. Ivies are tenacious plants, growing up and over anything in their path. While many ivies are great at erosion control on a steep site, they don't always stay where we want them. If the ivy is relegated to the main trunk of the tree, it should not pose a problem. If you allow it free growth, the ivy will continue to grow up and over the limbs and to the end of the branches. Since ivy is evergreen, this is going to add extra weight to those limbs in the winter if we get snow or ice, which can lead to limb breakage. The ivy foliage will also be competing with your leaves for sunlight during the growing season. If the ivy wraps around small limbs, it can also limit their growth by girdling the stem, as the ivy twines around it and the vine gets woodier and woodier. Either keep the ivy pruned at a height you can reach on the trunk, or keep it off the trees entirely.
Q My cherry laurel hedge of 5 feet by 50 feet is losing its leaves and looks like it is dying. A fourth of it is gone, and the rest is green. Also, a variegated shrub by my door has the same look. Would spray for weeds have killed it? The hedge is 18 years old and trimmed to maintain its shape along our driveway. Please let me know how I can save it.
A Did you spray the weed killer on the hedge? Do you know what the chemical was that you sprayed? Normally the weed killer will tell you on the label if it is safe to use around shrubs. Many are not. At this point, the damage is done and time will tell how much harm has occurred. Large woody shrubs should be harder to kill than a small herbaceous weed. Keep the plants watered and wait for spring. See how they leaf out. You may need to do some thinning or shaping to encourage a fuller hedge in the spring, but no new growth is going to be coming on them this winter. Always read and follow label directions before using any chemical.
Q I am removing invasive shrubs and would like to replant with something that is native. What are some natives that help sustain themselves? A list of berry producers for the birds would be helpful.
A There are many small trees and shrubs you can plant that will help attract birds to your yard. Elderberries, viburnums, beautyberry (Callicarpa), wax myrtle, deciduous hollies and native yaupon holly, chokeberry and spicebush are just a few shrubs you could use. For small trees, consider any of the dogwoods, serviceberry and sassafras.
Janet B. Carson is a horticulture specialist for the University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service. Write to her at 2301 S. University Ave., Little Rock, Ark. 72204 or email her at
HomeStyle on 01/17/2015