Outdoors: Summer rain brings rise to upper Buffalo River

The waterfall at Hemmed-In-Hollow along the Buffalo National River flows full on July 10. Summer rain brought a rare opportunity to float the upper Buffalo from Ponca to Kyle’s Landing, which is usually too low for canoeing in July.
The waterfall at Hemmed-In-Hollow along the Buffalo National River flows full on July 10. Summer rain brought a rare opportunity to float the upper Buffalo from Ponca to Kyle’s Landing, which is usually too low for canoeing in July.

Showering in swim trunks under a a 225-foot waterfall is a rare delight when heavy rain falls during summer along the Buffalo National River.

photo

NWA Democrat-Gazette

Waterfalls were plentiful during a walk up a side creek during a float trip on the upper Buffalo River.

photo

NWA Democrat-Gazette

Paddlers enjoy a full Buffalo River during a rare summertime opportunity to float its upper miles.

Days of steady rain in early July got the Buffalo on a toot, filling it to the brim and awakening side creeks and waterfalls along its banks. Even the upstream miles of the river from Ponca to Kyle's Landing ran fast and full. An opportunity to float this upper stretch in July comes along once in a blue moon and only lasts a few days.

Float the Buffalo

The Buffalo National River flows freely for 135 miles. It is one of the few undammed rivers in the United States. The Buffalo was named the nation’s first national river in 1972.

Most summertime float trips take place in the middle and lower sections of the Buffalo. The river is easy to navigate and suitable for paddlers of all skill levels.

The popular Lost Valley hiking trail is closed until flood damage is repaired. It is expected to reopen in the fall.

Information: www.nps.gov/buff

A check of the river level revealed absolutely perfect conditions for canoeing on July 10. The forecast promised sunny skies and hot temperatures. Ninety minutes later, we were sliding our canoe into the Buffalo River at Ponca.

Steve McAdams with Buffalo Outdoors Center was at the Ponca launch site with canoes, kayaks and rafts ready for customers.

"This is the only time I can remember launching rafts from here in July," said McAdams, who has worked at the center for 20-plus years.

We waved farewell to McAdams while the swift current whisked us away, downriver to the wonders of the nation's first national river. A paddler can get a sore neck looking up at the vertical rock walls that appear at every turn. Bluffs of more than 100 feet appear in the first mile. We heard small waterfalls pouring into the Buffalo, but the thick vegetation of mid summer hid many from view.

This upstream part of the Buffalo is a sight to behold, but at high flows it's not recommended for novice floaters. The Buffalo becomes gentler downstream from Kyle's Landing and is ideal for beginners. The river was high enough on this float to be up in the bushes a bit. The usually clear water was a tad muddy.

Rounding a fast S-curve signaled the spot to beach the canoe and take the mile hike up Hemmed-In-Hollow to the 225-foot waterfall in the hollow's box canyon. The gradual uphill hike was a sweaty one, but worth every step. We were ready for a cool shower under the tallest waterfall between the Appalachians and the Rockies.

The cascade spills to earth in a ribbon of water that moves back and forth at the whim of the breeze. The long drop lets the waterfall break into a shower of droplets like a drenching rain. To stand under this spill of water was heaven on this hot day. Try it in March or April when the waterfall is rocking and you'd turn into a giant goose bump.

More waterfall wonders awaited a mile downstream. We beached the canoe again where a side creek poured into the Buffalo. From the river we could see at least two waterfalls, small ones maybe 10 feet high. Hiking upstream revealed more waterfalls, including one that was like a water slide about 20 feet tall.

Navigating the rapids at Gray Rock was a thrill, and one that means the Kyle's Landing take-out is near. We had the Buffalo to ourselves most of the trip and saw only three other boats all day.

We'll be doing our rain dance soon, hoping for another river rise and another summertime float down the upper Buffalo.

Sports on 08/06/2015

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