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Pick what instills confidence in dressing for job interview

Q. I recently had three interviews for the same job. While I did not get the job, I did have three good interviews, each beginning with the vice president of human resources. It seemed important to wear something different each time, and that wasn't easy. I have two very good suits that I look good in, and a few nice blazers (the basic of my industry, if one dresses up at all). Was it acceptable to go with a blazer for the third interview, or was I better served returning to the first suit?

A. I'm sorry you didn't get the job, but it sounds as if they were very interested. I don't imagine the position went to someone better dressed than you (or at least not because of that).

That said, if you felt worried or uncomfortable about your look, that always can have an influence on your self-assurance. This is one of the main reasons I feel clothing knowledge and choice are so important. To feel in control, you do need to be comfortable in your (outer) skin.

I suggest returning to one of the suits for your third interview. Especially if the third interview happens to be the clincher, you want to go with the look that is most professional and that has the most "presence." It's possible a blazer might work for an interview if your field truly does not ever require a suit and only rarely a blazer. In general, a suit is considered the best choice for a job interview.

Since you own a couple of suits that you look and feel good in, you certainly could wear the same two suits for three or more interviews. By combining different shirts and ties skillfully, a few suits can look like a whole wardrobe. In fact, with enough care and variety in your accessories, you could probably succeed with only one suit.

The following are examples of how combinations look significantly different when worn with the same blue suit:

• A white broadcloth shirt with a standard point collar and a navy tie with a small, powder blue pattern is elegant and boardroom perfect (perhaps a bit too dressy in your setting).

• A light blue pinpoint Oxford cloth shirt with a tab collar, and a red-and-blue regimental striped tie is discreetly dashing.

• A blue-and-white-striped shirt with a solid deep-red silk knit tie is straight-out businesslike.

• An ivory-colored shirt with a red-and-yellow small-print tie would likewise be very professional.

• A blue shirt with a widely spaced fine green line, worn with a dressy green-and-blue mini-geometric print tie, creates a look that is smart and sophisticated.

• A light yellow button-down collar Oxford cloth shirt, with a navy and yellow paisley tie, is a way for a suit to have a business-casual look.

Beyond those specific examples, some basic variations can create different effects. Based on just how formal or dressy you want your look to be, the accessories can dramatically change a suit's look and image. Here are a few rules:

• The darker the suit and tie and the lighter the shirt, the dressier the look (a white shirt and very dark tie, perhaps with white pin dots, is the dressiest look).

• A colored or striped shirt is less formal than an all-white one.

• Ties make a huge difference (small patterns and sharp color contrasts are dressy, larger patterns in muted shades are more casual).

• Subtle touches, too, change the tone. Such dressy additions as a white linen pocket handkerchief, a spread collar, French cuffs, cuff links and wing-tip shoes all move a combination up to a more formal level. In contrast, more casual touches dress a suit down, such as a button-down collar and button cuffs, a colored pocket square, a slightly darker shirt color, a sweater vest, loafers or cap-toed lace-ups.

Avoid mixing apples with oranges. Jarringly different items do not soften a suit's formality, they merely ruin the effect. As examples: argyle socks with a dark business suit or an oversized, floral pattern tie with a dark "power" suit project a confused image.

If you do decide on a blazer for one of your repeat interviews, most of the same rules for mixing and matching with suits apply. Lean toward wearing more formal accessories to dress the blazer up, rather than down.

A few notes about dressing for interviews and what sorts of things will be noticed:

• Shoes: If you have multiple pairs, be sure they are shined and clean, and mix them. If not, always wear your best shoes. Others often judge you on your shoes.

• Rough edges: Never have a tattered cuff or collar, a stain, or poor grooming (always clean nails, well-cut hair, neatly ironed shirt, pressed pants).

• Reconsider anything gaudy: Even if it is your style, avoid huge watches, monogrammed items, a floppy pocket square, eye-catching jewelry.

Perhaps the what-to-wear rule is the same as the whole interview rule. Present your best so they are impressed, but not overwhelmed. Flash gets attention, but also distraction and question. Simple, subtle excellence in each element will build a cumulative sense of quality, confidence and being the right choice.

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High Profile on 07/20/2014

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