MALE CALL

Subtle changes distinguish menswear over generations

Q. My company has a tradition of dressing for Halloween, themed by department. My department went with Mad Men. The women wore their hair in buns, either skirts or dresses that, while somewhat similar to current styles, were clearly of a bygone era. The men, however, were dressed essentially as we do for an important meeting, with the addition of hats. Perhaps we were a little more black-and-white, but generally no one would have guessed we were in costume. I mentioned to someone that businessmen dress exactly as they did 60 years ago and they said it was entirely different. So, yes, I am writing to have you tell me I am right!

A. Yes, I will mostly go with you in this argument. While women's fashions seem to change every 35 seconds, men's clothing, especially business and formal clothes, change very little from year to year, even from decade to decade, and, strangely, often from generation to generation. Not only that, but the pendulum of style changes tends to return for men. I have often noted that if a woman wore clothes inherited from her mother, she would look ridiculous, but if a man wore an item of clothing inherited from his father or even his grandfather, he could probably get away it.

It is interesting that you compared today to the late 1950s/1960s. I recently noted the same regarding even the 1930s. Last week, I attended one of the most thoroughly successful Broadway hit shows that I have seen in years, You Can't Take It With You. A revival that does not come off as one bit dated, it is as funny and timely as when it was written in 1936. Throughout the evening, I kept noticing that the women's costumes were clearly from another era, but everything that the men wore, from black-tie attire to their business suits, could just as well have been bought recently. The men's clothes were classically tailored, in colors and cuts that have not gone out of style, a testament to the ongoing nature of men's traditional styling.

Of course, a few things do change. The width of a necktie, the size of a lapel, the popularity of hats, and some current casual weekend styles. But, in essence, the well-dressed man of a while back is still a well-dressed man today. That's why I think it is such a worthwhile use of a man's time to learn the "rules" of dressing well and looking good; they will be useful for so many years.

It is too late for your costume, but there are elements beyond the hats that truly are from the Mad Men era. I'm afraid a few of them do somewhat support your colleague's argument. For example, one of my favorite old styles was the dapper ventless jacket that Humphrey Bogart wore in Casablanca, and that, sadly, no one wears today. Everything now is single vent or double vent. And, while they would only be clear to the keenest observer, T-shirts of the 1950s would actually not be T's, just sleeveless undershirts. Men's currently popular monk strap shoes were not around then. Ties were even thinner than today's style and would almost always include tie bars. Handkerchiefs in the breast pocket were a given.

Thinking of the differences of that era reminds me that I should point out to my readers (who do not want to look out-of-date) some important points. Modern dressers wear a few styles now that were different 10 or 15 years ago. Neckties come to mind. These days they are noticeably more narrow. Also, today's guys want to show off their gym-toned physiques. Instead of wearing pleated trousers, they wear flat-fronts almost exclusively.

OK, but here's some insider clothing industry news that I just learned: Be aware that the full pleat will be coming back in the next year or so.

Another subtle change that's on the horizon: Today's shorter suit jackets will be reverting to their slightly longer lengths (still, that is only about a half-inch longer). But mostly, you are right, men's styles remain constant.

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High Profile on 12/14/2014

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