Pear-fectly delightful

Good things come to those who wait, at least three days anyway

Pear Bread Pudding
Pear Bread Pudding

We’ve always wondered why apples get all of the attention when it comes to fall fruits.

Pears are sweet and crunchy too. Yet the skinny-shouldered fruit in blushing hues of green, yellow and red tends to get overlooked and is often under-appreciated. But then we read this quotation from Emily Luchetti in The Flavor Bible by Karen Page and Andrew Dorenburg and it all made sense.

“Apples are more popular than pears because when you go to the store, pears are all hard. You buy them, bring them home, and wait forever for them to ripen. You have to have a premeditated use for pears.”

Exactly.

You can buy apples and eat them right away or toss them in the crisper drawer in the fridge and forget about them for weeks.

Pears are much more complicated.

Pear season peaks in late summer to early fall, but because many pears have an exceptionally long shelf life - the fruits mature, but do not ripen on the tree - many varieties can be found in supermarkets through the winter months.

The pears you find at the supermarket are almost guaranteed to be rock hard. Fortunately, a day or three at room temperature is usually all a pear needs to reach peak enjoyment condition.

But how do you know?

Some suggest gently pressing the “neck” of the pear at the stem. If it yields to the pressure it’s ripe. The keywords here are gently and yields. You’re not trying to bruise the pear and your finger shouldn’t leave an indentation. If you feel a slight give, then the fruit is likely ripe.

Once ripe and ready to eat, pears can be held in the refrigerator for about five days.

COMMONLY AVAILABLE PEARS

Anjou: The second most popular pear in the United States, this oval-shaped pear has bright green skin (a red variety is sometimes available) with white flesh.

Asian: These true pears are often called apple pears, because their short, squatty shape looks more like an apple than a pear. They are everything a pear is supposed to be - sweet, juicy and crisp.

Bartlett: While not as hardy as the Anjou, the Bartlett is the most popular pear in the United States. The bell shaped pear has a golden color with sweet, juicy flesh.

Bosc: Another pear popular with American cooks, it has russet-colored skin with juicy, sweet, nutty-flavored flesh.

Comice: The round pear is considered the “queen of dessert pears” and often is included in Christmas fruit baskets. Its flavor is sweet and rich, with a nice balance of acid. A red variety is sometimes available.

Seckel: These small American pears have reddish-brown skin and are available in late summer and early fall.

PAIRING PEARS WITH CHEESE, WINE AND BEER

Pears and cheese are natural partners. Almost any pear can be matched with any cheese with tasty results, but for the adventurous we’ve put together a list of specific cheese and pear variety pairings, as well as what to sip alongside.

Anjou: Pair this sweet and juicy pear with a creamy brie or fresh goat cheese and sip a crisp sauvignon blanc or a blonde or cream ale.

Asian pear: This crisp-textured pear goes well with Camembert. Try the pairing with a crisp chardonnay or fruit-infused beer.

Bartlett: This aromatic pear goes well with triple-cream cheeses such as St. Andre. Make it a trio with a dry sparkling wine or India pale ale.

Bosc: Earthy, yet honey-sweet boscs stand up well to the bold flavor of aged white cheddar. Go for a hearty red like cabernet sauvignon or opt for robust porter.

Comice: Go for a classic match-up with comice and blue cheese such as gorgonzola or Stilton while sipping ruby port or high-alcohol barley wine beer or porter.

Seckel: This subtly flavored pear goes well with fontina. Serve with a light-bodied pinot noir or brown ale or oatmeal stout.

This recipe for pear honey is from Irene Wilson Wooley, who got the recipe from her mother-in-law, Inez Wooley. Irene, who is my cousin’s mother-in-law, suggests serving it on hot buttered biscuits or toast.

Pear Honey

9 cups ground, peeled and cored pears

1 can crushed pineapple

Juice of 1 lemon

5 cups granulated sugar

In a heavy saucepan, combine the pears, pineapple, lemon juice and sugar. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer and cook, stirring frequently, until mixture thickens, about 2 hours.

Transfer to sterilized pint jars.

Seal and process in a water bath for 5 minutes.

Makes about 4 pints.

This pear salsa is delicious served as a relish for roasted meat or fish.

Pear Salsa

1 ripe pear, peeled and diced

¼ to ½ cup red or yellow bell pepper, cored and diced

¼ cup diced sweet onion

1 Fresno or jalapeno pepper, minced

2 tablespoons minced fresh mint

Honey, to taste

Juice of 1 lime, or to taste

Salt

Combine all ingredients in a medium bowl. Let stand 10 minutes for flavors to develop.

Taste and add more honey, lime juice and/or salt.

Makes about 2 cups.

Cauliflower With Brown Butter, Pears, Sage and Pecans

6 tablespoons butter

1 medium head cauliflower, cut into small florets

½ cup toasted, chopped pecans

8 fresh sage leaves, thinly sliced crosswise

Salt and ground black pepper

2 small to medium ripe pears, cored and thinly sliced

2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

In a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat, melt the butter until light brown and bubbly. Add the cauliflower, pecans and sage. Cook for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Season with 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the cauliflower is browned and crisp-tender, 6 to 7 minutes more.

Remove the pan from the heat. Add the pear slices and parsley. Gently toss to combine and warm the pears. Season to taste with more salt. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Recipe adapted from finecooking.com

Candied Walnut, Pear and Leafy Green Salad

1/3 cup granulated sugar

2/3 cup chopped walnuts, toasted (see note)

½ teaspoon kosher salt, divided use

2 tablespoons white balsamic vinegar or other white, flavorful vinegar

1 ½ teaspoons Dijon mustard

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon capers, rinsed

8 cups mixed salad greens

1 ripe red pear, thinly sliced

¼ teaspoon ground black pepper

Line a baking sheet with parchment or wax paper; set aside.

Place sugar in a small heavy saucepan over medium-high heat; cook 1 minute or until sugar dissolves, stirring gently as needed to dissolve sugar evenly. Continue cooking, without stirring, for 1 minute or until syrup turns light golden brown. Remove from heat.

Carefully stir in nuts. Spread nuts on prepared baking sheet, separating the nuts quickly.

Sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon of the salt. Set aside until cool; then break apart into small pieces.

In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar and mustard. Gradually add the oil, whisking constantly. Stir in the capers.

Place salad mix in a large bowl. Top with pear slices and candied nuts. Drizzle with dressing. Sprinkle with black pepper and the remaining ¾ teaspoon salt. Toss gently to combine.

Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Note: Place the walnuts in a single layer in a heavy skillet over medium-low heat and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant.

Recipe adapted from Cooking Light Good Mood Food

This gingerbread cake from Claudia Lauer (an Arkansas Democrat-Gazette news reporter and former professional baker) combines the flavors of pear, maple and ginger with subtle notes of cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves. Lauer suggests serving the cake with a dollop of whipped cream infused with maple syrup or bourbon.

Maple Pear Gingerbread

1 ¾ cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon ground nutmeg

Pinch cloves

½ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon baking soda

2 medium to small pears

½ cup packed brown sugar

2/3 cup maple syrup

3 eggs

½ cup butter, melted

¼ cup finely shredded fresh ginger

Heat oven to 350 degrees.

Butter and flour a deep 9-inch cake pan.

Sift together the flour, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, salt and baking soda.

Peel and dice the pears into ¾ inch pieces; set aside.

In a large mixing bowl, beat together the dark brown sugar and maple syrup. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well between additions. Beat in flour mixture until just combined. Stir in melted butter and ginger.

Pour half batter into pan, sprinkle half the pears on top.

Pour rest of batter over, then press remaining pears into top.

Bake about 35 minutes or until a wooden pick inserted near the center comes out clean.

Makes 1 cake.

Root Beer Poached Pears

4 firm-ripe Bosc pears, peeled, halved and cored

4 (12-ounce) bottles root beer

Freshly grated zest of 2 medium lemons

In a medium saucepan, combine the pears, root beer and lemon zest. Bring the mixture to a slow simmer over medium-low heat and cook until the pears are tender, 20 to 30 minutes. With a slotted spoon, carefully transfer the pears to a plate. Bring the poaching liquid to a boil and boil until reduced to a syrup, about 15 minutes (watch carefully toward the end because it can burn quickly);

you should have about ¾ cup.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Recipe adapted from Fine Cooking

Fresh Pear Cocktail

1 medium Bosc pear

2 tablespoons citrus-infused vodka

1 tablespoon pomegranate juice

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

1 tablespoon agave syrup or simple syrup

Ice

3 tablespoons hard apple cider

Shred pear. Press shredded pear through a very fine sieve or several layers of cheese cloth to make 1/3 cup juice. Discard solids.

Fill a cocktail shaker ¾ full with ice. Add the pear juice, vodka, pomegranate juice, lime juice and agave syrup. Cover and shake until well chilled.

Strain mixture into 2 martini glasses. Top each with 1 ½ tablespoons hard cider. Garnish with pear slices, if desired.

Makes 2 cocktails.

Recipe adapted from Cooking Light Oct. 2013

Pear Bread Pudding

Softened butter

1 cup granulated sugar, divided use

6 eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Zest of 1 lemon, grated

1 cup whole milk

1 cup heavy cream, plus more for garnish

4 cups cubed day-old country style bread, crusts removed

2 ripe pears, peeled, cored and cut into ½ -inch chunks

3 tablespoons sliced almonds

Heat oven to 350 degrees.

Generously coat a baking dish or 6 (10-ounce) ramekins with the softened butter; set aside.

Set aside 2 tablespoons of the sugar.

In a large bowl, whisk together the remaining sugar, eggs, vanilla extract and lemon zest. Whisk in the milk and heavy cream. Add the bread and pears. Pour mixture into the prepared baking dish(es).

Sprinkle with the reserved sugar and the sliced almonds. Bake 40 to 45 minutes or until pudding is set and puffy, and the top is golden brown. Let cool on rack at least 15 minutes before serving. Serve warm or at room temperature with a dollop of unsweetened whipped cream.

Makes about 6 servings.

Recipe adapted from Lidia’s Commonsense Italian Cooking by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich and Tanya Bastianich Manuali (to be released Oct. 16, Knopf)

Food, Pages 31 on 10/09/2013

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