In the garden

Q We are hoping to downsize this year and move to a smaller yard. But I hate to leave all of my bulbs! If I dug them when they were finished blooming, how long would the daffodils, scilla, grape hyacinths, etc., be viable?

A You can’t dig them until a minimum of six weeks after bloom.

The foliage period after flowering is when they set the flowers for next year. If you dig them immediately after bloom, you would have no flowers next year. Once they have completed their life cycle, you can dig the bulbs, dry them and store them for a fall planting. I would not keep them longer than that, or the bulbs will dry out and be worthless.

Q I have some azaleas that had a few branches broken when limbs fell from trees during the Christmas storm. I cut out anything that was broken, but the plants are pretty lopsided. Should I prune them now as they are beginning to grow to give them as much time as possible to fill back in? If so, how severely can I cut them?

A Enjoy what flowers are left before pruning. It won’t make that much difference, and many azaleas are beginning to show color now.

Once they have finished flowering, prune away. In a normal year, we try not to remove more than a third of the plant at one time, but more severe measures may be needed, depending on how much damage was done. Selectively prune out branches, pruning to buds that can become the new branch. I prefer staggered heights, so that you get a fuller bush, versus the “meatball” look when using electric hedge trimmers. Fertilize when you are done, and water as needed all summer.

Q I really enjoyed your story on edible landscaping [HomeStyle, March 16] and have decided I want to try growing some herbs. I have never really gardened, and I would like to start with something easy.

What is your recommendation to plant in a flower bed that has OK soil and lots of sunlight? I can water, but need to know how often and how much.

A First you need to think about what herbs you often use when cooking. If you like and use rosemary, it would be a good first plant. It thrives in well-drained sites in full sun. It doesn’t like heavy, wet soils. Thyme and sage are also fairly easy and like full sun. If you use basil, it does well, but likes water. Dill and fennel are also good to try.

How often and how much to water will vary by what you grow, the amount of sunlight, the type of soil and the slope of the yard. To get plants established, you will need to water twice a week or so. Once the herbs have rooted, depending on rainfall and temperature, you might get away with once a week.

Once you have success, you can begin to add new plants to the garden. I always say that you aren’t a true gardener if you have never lost a plant. Trial-and-error education is a good thing, but so is a healthy, thriving plant.

Q We are having a wheelchair ramp put in at our back door. We would like ideas on flowering, not smelly vines that will grow quick and stay year-round in some form. We will be putting latticework up on one side of the landing to shield the sight of our air conditioner and barbecue grill from the alley.

It’s on the north side of the house. It gets little sun in the morning and some full late afternoon sun in the summer.

Basically no sun in the winter.

The vine must not be invasive or cause too much work to keep it off of the house and trained to the latticework. We live in downtown Little Rock.

It would be nice if the vine would draw hummingbirds. I am disabled and my husband is battling cancer, so the vine should require very little maintenance if possible.

A Several plants should work for you. For something fast-growing but requiring a little pruning annually once it is established, the evergreen Carolina jasmine would do. The native varieties have some fragrance, but most of the improved ones do not. Another possibility is Armand clematis, which is an evergreen vine with small white flowers in the spring. I would think that you are more concerned about foliage than flowers; even if there is limited light, these plants should still hold foliage year-round.

Janet Carson is a horticulture specialist for the University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service. Write to her at 2301 S. University Ave., Little Rock, Ark. 72204 or e-mail her at

[email protected]

HomeStyle, Pages 27 on 03/30/2013

Upcoming Events