SPIRITS

Bargain or pricey, mixed or straight, it’s all about taste

Over the Thanksgiving holiday, a friend offered me some $700 gin. Limited edition Nolet’s Reserve Dry Gin.

Not being a bona fide gin drinker, I took only a sip, but I instantly recognized something pearly and fragrant, with just a hint of saffron, in the perfumed bead I held on my tongue. I understood that there was a universe encompassed within it and one could spend years chasing down the particulars - the mouth-feel and subtle aromas - that composed the experience of drinking this gin.

I’m guessing that my experience wasn’t too unlike that of an older friend, who told me that after doing his first line of cocaine in the early ’70s he decided he could never try the drug again. Some habits are too expensive to acquire. Besides, he had to think about preserving his political viability.

I’ve been lucky to sample a lot of high-end liquor over the 10 years I’ve been doing this column. For the most part, I understand why some people would pay a premium for a brand’s name or image. Sometimes - as with the Nolet’s - I even discern a qualitative difference between price points. But that doesn’t mean there is a strict correlation between price and quality. I’ve found things I like and things I don’t across the spectrum. When people ask for suggestions, I can usually give them a prestige buy and a value. But you shouldn’t let anyone tell you what to like.

By way of example, let’s peruse my bar. The prices, depending on where you shop, might be off by a few dollars either way.

My favorite gin is Tanqueray Rangpur (about $24 a 750 ml bottle). Rangpur is technically a flavored product and - to my friends who style themselves real gin drinkers - probably the moral equivalent of cheesecake-flavored vodka. I don’t care. I usually keep a bottle of regular Tanqueray for them, as well as Hendrick’s and whatever else comes in over the transom, but if I had to have one gin in my house I’d keep the Rangpur.

If I had to keep one vodka, I’d probably go with American Harvest Organic Spirit ($23), which recently replaced Tito’s ($24) as our house pour. But that’s only because I can’t find Wodka (which I’ve bought for $9 in New York) locally. While there’s nothing wrong with premium vodkas like Absolut, Grey Goose and Ciroc, which strive for a tasteless neutrality, I prefer a little grit and flavor. Regardless of price point, Wodka is my favorite vodka.

The rest of the my bar would consist of Knob Creek bourbon - it’s usually around $30 but I’ve bought it for $19.99 on sale. While I enjoy a lot of very high-end bourbons - Baker’s, Booker’s and Pappy Van Winkle - I have to say that it’s kind of hard to find a lousy one. I’ve written a bit about my enthusiasm for Evan Williams ($17), but there’s nothing wrong with Ancient Age or Fighting Cock, and I’ve heard a lot of good things about Rebel Yell.

I like Bulleitt Rye ($28) as well as many of the higher-priced brands I’ve tried. It wouldn’t be much of a sacrifice to go with Old Overholt ($18).

I might splurge on Irish whiskey - Redbreast 12-yearold ($49) is one of my favorite things to drink, with Knappogue ($50) right behind it. But Feckin is less than half the price, and perfectly acceptable if you can find it.

We have two Scotches on hand - The Famous Grouse is a great blended Scotch for the money ($22), while I’ll sip The Macallan Cask Strength (lists for about $80 but I’ve found it for far less). Keep in mind that cask strengths are meant to be diluted, so you’re really getting more than 750 ml here. The Macallan is more sherry-flavored than a lot of Scotch, but it’s what I like.

Two rums as well - maybe Myer’s or Gosling’s but more likely Appleton Estate Reserve ($27) for sipping and Cruzan Black Strap ($19) for mixing my versions of various boat drinks.

The current fashion for moonshine seems marketing-driven - I don’t particularly like white dog and I don’t think many people genuinely do; it’s just fun to play hillbilly. But I do like having Ole Smokey Tennessee Cherries (maraschino cherries soaked in Ole Smokey moonshine, about $24) on hand to garnish Manhattans. Alternatively, you can also add a shot of Jim Beam Red Stag black cherry-infused bourbon ($18) to your Manhattan recipe.

I try to keep a bottle of Remy Martin Champagne Cognac ($38) on hand, but the truth is, unless a house-sitter goes on a binge (that’s right, after all these years I still remember), it will last us a couple of years. More to the the point is the 1.75-liter bottle of E&J VS Brandy ($23) we keep for mixing.

I’m not a connoisseur of tequila, but my go-to is Jose Cuervo Especial Silver ($22). Usually we have some high end stuff around, but for making margaritas, the Cuervo is probably better than what we need.

I like to keep a good supply of bitters. I generally use Fee Brothers’ orange, chocolate, cherry and lemon varieties (about $8 per 4-ounce bottle) to augment the standard Angostura ($10, 4 ounces), as well as some cheap Triple Sec, Grand Marnier ($32, 750 ml) or, if I can find it, La Belle Orange Cognac & Orange liqueur ($22). We’ve had a bottle of blue curacao around forever. I don’t use the creme de menthe, though Karen will mix a stinger now and then.

I’m convinced there’s almost an inverse relationship between the cost of coffee liqueur and how much I’ll enjoy it. I like Kamora ($10) every bit as much as Kahlua ($19) and probably more. I make a simple syrup as called for, and we grow mint. We get homemade limoncello from some friends.

I like to give Arkansas products as gifts, so I’ve usually got some Rock Town Arkansas Young bourbon ($36) on hand, as well as Rock Town’s Apple Pie Lightning (which isn’t to my taste, but has been appreciated by guests). We also usually have Pimm’s No. 1 Cup ($18), some kind of port, and maybe 50 bottles of wine - most of which sell for less than $20 a bottle.

But we have no limited-edition Nolet’s Reserve Dry Gin. And I don’t expect to get any, though, in the line of duty, I might one day try the Nolet’s Silver Dry Gin, which sells for about $50. Which is still too much (for me) to pay for a bottle of gin.

[email protected]

Style, Pages 43 on 12/08/2013

Upcoming Events