Those who blinked while passing by the former 36 Club on Dickson Street might have missed the change. But when former chef Peter Steinhart announced his retirement, his friends Sherri Simpkins and Randy McGuffn swooped in to claim the space.
Just 10 days after the 36 Club closed, the new AquaFire Restaurant and Bistro, owned by Simpkins and featuring McGuffin as chef, opened on Aug. 22.
Simpkins and McGuff n had been looking for a restaurant space in Bentonville, but the right situation never presented itself. McGuff n had previously operated Blackboards in Bella Vista and Basil’s in Rogers, and Simpkins was responsible for the Meals on Wheels program through the Fayetteville Senior Activity and Wellness Center. In a period between restaurants, McGuff n says he worked for Meals on Wheels and as a restaurant consultant.
He returned to the kitchen via AquaFire, oft ering what he calls “modern global cuisine.” For McGuff n, global indicates that flavors could come from anywhere. Modern indicates an emphasis on healthy cooking techniques and locally sourced foods. As often as he can, McGuffin raids the Farmers’ Market for produce, and other products come from as close as possible, such as seafood from American waters and U.S.-made wines.
The restaurant features three menus: lunch, dinner and the bistro menu, a collection of sandwiches, salads and soups catering to the collegiate or mobile crowd. The bistro menu, which includes favorites such as the strawberry chicken salad, with mixed greens, raspberry vinaigrette and roasted walnuts ($10), is oftered at all hours.
Popular items at lunchtime include the roasted duck burrito, one of a few holdover items from another of McGuffin’s restaurants. The dish pairs duck with red chili sauce, Monterey jack cheese, black beans and tomatillo salsa ($10). Another oft-ordered item is the local trout cakes, served as a lunch dish with shrimp tartar sauce and spinach risotto ($11). The cakes are made from locally sourced trout.
Dinner entrees often include wild game or unique takes on traditional dishes. As an example of what the menu features, McGuffn points to the grilled eggplant parmesan ($14). Instead of being deep fried and smothered in heavy red sauce, AquaFire’s version includes grilled eggplant and a light, fresh tomato sauce.
The menu changes every week based on availability and freshness of ingredients, McGuffin says. Recently available for dinner were the buft alo brisket, which is red wine braised and served with whipped potatoes and green beans ($22), and the bronzed grouper, served with tropical fruit relish, potato cake and key lime sauce ($24).
McGuffin says his goal is to make the restaurant better one week at a time.
Whats Up, Pages 17 on 09/21/2012