HIKE ON HIGH

VIEWS SPECTACULAR ALONG LOFTY RIVER TRAIL

Byrd, from left, Jim Warnock and Carol Byrd savor the view from a bluff shelter along the Goat Trail.

Byrd, from left, Jim Warnock and Carol Byrd savor the view from a bluff shelter along the Goat Trail.

Thursday, November 22, 2012

— PONCA Ahike along the Goat Trail in Buff alo River country is like a trek to the end of the rainbow.

That’s where the pot of gold awaits on this trek.

Hikers strike it rich on this spectacular path that off ers some of the most magnifi cent views in all of the Ozarks. On a scale of 10, a Goat Trail hike is off the charts.

It’s an easy three-mile hike to the panoramic views along the Goat Trail, then a tougher threemile hike out that involves one lung-buster climb.

Midway through the six-mile trip, explorers veer off the beaten path to walk a spur trail that leads to Big Bluff. At 500 feet, it’s one of the tallest along the Buff alo River.

The Goat Trails meanders along the middle of the bluff some 300 feet above the Buff alo.

Hikers ooh and aah. A few holler, “Don’t look down!” during a walk along the narrow trail.

Some are at a loss for words during their fi rst visit.

“You’ve got to be kidding,” uttered hiker Lynn Muirhead of Hot Springs. “You’ve got to be kidding,” she kept saying, spellbound by the view during her first Goat Trail experience Nov. 3, asunny Saturday.

On this precipice, hikers pause to gaze up and down the river valley from on high. Below us, the Buffalo shimmered in sunshine, flanked by sheer cliff s and unbroken forest with little sign of civilization.

Getting to the Goat Trail is a show of its own.

EASY TREKKING

Our platoon of six hikers began this memorable trip at the Centerpoint trailhead, three miles north of Ponca on Arkansas 43.

The gathering was a group hike hosted by the Ozark Highlands Trail Association. It’s one of several day hikes and backpack trips the organization offers. Outings are open to anyone, not just members.

Off to our right, the hill country was a riot of fall color. Conversation was easy for the fi rst mile on the gradual downhill track. Then the trail drops sharply and footing gets dicey. There’s loose rock everywhere, spiced with a little mud.

The trail passes a line of boulders that stick from the ground and look like the triangular plates on the back of a stegosaurus.

Our midmorning start meant the fall foliage was backlit by the sun, making our hike even more beautiful. Maples put on a wild display of reds and oranges that stopped us in our tracks.

This show alone was enough, but the pot of gold, the main event, was up ahead.

At the three-mile mark, the woods open up to a savannalike area along a ridge.

There’sa big fire ring here and a spur trail that heads off to the right.

This is the spur that leads to the Goat Trail and its lofty treasures.

We scrambled down over boulders and the roots of gnarly cedars. The trail narrowed. Trees thinned to reveal the first in a gallery of wondrous views.

Carol Byrd of Siloam Springs was the fi rst to experience a Goat Trail moment.

“These views, they’re just magnificent,” she said. The air carried a scent of evergreens. “It’s peaceful. It’s quiet. All you hear is the wind and sometimes some birds.”

This was only the beginning. Vistas and jaw-dropping scenery get better farther down the trail.

Where the good stuff becomes truly great, the path follows a ledge that’s only 6-feet wide, but 300 feet above the Buffalo. A fall here and it’s curtains.

Two in our group decided this was far enough. Peer pressure prevailed and across they came, like walking a tightrope high above the water.

Hiking gets easier past this tricky spot. The trail widens and passes a couple of bluff shelters. We chose the second shelter to sit down and eat our lunch here on the trail, a room with a fi ve-star view.

A simple sandwich never tasted so good. Carol Byrd’s husband, Roger, enjoyed it all.

“The view and the wind rustling through the trees make this place comfortingand free,” he said.

We’d found our pot of gold.

TOUGH HIKE OUT

What goes down must come up. Fortified by our noon nourishment, we started the walk back to the trailhead.

Barbara Chambers, a 72-year-old hiker from Holiday Island, led the way. She set a brisk pace on the ascent.

A native of Germany, Chambers has trekked all over Europe and the United States. She’s a strong hiker with a goal of walking 1,000 miles this year. Chambers is ahead of schedule to accomplish that.

Some of her miles are on pavement, but she much prefers a walk in the woods like this Goat Trail trip.

On our hike out, we commented how the color was pretty much over in Northwest Arkansas, but it remained vivid along the Buffalo. This autumn color washed over the Ozarks like a slow-moving tsunami of crimson and yellow, gradually moving south.

“We should hike at Mount Magazine next weekend,” piped hiker Dana Phillips, noting the scenic state park southeast of Ozark.

So many trails. So little of autumn left, but the Goat Trail is a destination for all seasons.

Outdoor, Pages 8 on 11/22/2012