The Hooshburger comes with mayo, tomato, onion, lettuce and pickles,
but to go with it, you can also
pick up some fishing lures, a
new ax handle or a fan belt
for the car. Shoot a quick
game of pool, or brush up on
international politics for a
vigorous discussion of Middle
East policy issues.
While Crosses Cafe and
Grocery is best known for
that signature burger, it’s also
a gathering place of sorts,
both for local residents of
this small hamlet in south
Madison County and for the
many out-of-towners looking
for a stop along the scenic
Pig Trail from Fayetteville to
Interstate 40.
Depending on the time
of year, the store can be
populated with floaters in
swim trunks heading for the
Mulberry River, tie-dyed and
Birkenstocked music fans
stocking up on their way
to Wakarusa, motorcyclists
in black riding leathers or
hunters in camo and blaze
orange.
“For about three months
in the winter, it’s all locals.
The rest of the time, it’s
people from everywhere,” said
Hooshang “Hoosh” Nazarali,
the owner, head cook and
political guru of the Crosses
Cafe.
Nazarali, born in Iran, found
his way to Crosses in the
early 1980s. In addition to his
penchant for political banter,
his background also created
the Hooshburger’s uniqueness.
It’s a massive beef patty
- mine hit the grill with an
audible thump - handformed
and sprinkled with a secret
mix of Persian spices, then
built in traditional Americancheeseburger fashion. The home-cut fries were obviously still whole potatoes just hours earlier.
There’s also a regular, non-spiced version for the less adventurous - although if you’re not looking for adventure by the time you hit Crosses, you’ve probably made a wrong turn. In too early to crave a burger? The menu also features a full breakfast selection. Massive burger too much before a float or ride? Try a smaller sandwich in several varieties, or choose from several salads. And, if you’d rather grab ingredients on the go and make your own meal, the grocery aisle is just a few steps away.
Crosses Cafe and Grocery is modeled on the style of Old West general stores, Nazarali said, with a little bit of anything somebody might need. And that’s a good thing, because whether it’s the burger, the fan belt or even a roll of toilet paper, Hoosh’s inventory is the only choice for many miles in any direction.
So stop in, talk some politics, pick up those necessities and let Hoosh cook you up an international burger in the heart of Madison County.
Whats Up, Pages 23 on 11/16/2012