Small Town, Worldly Experience

The Hooshburger comes with mayo, tomato, onion, lettuce and pickles,

but to go with it, you can also

pick up some fishing lures, a

new ax handle or a fan belt

for the car. Shoot a quick

game of pool, or brush up on

international politics for a

vigorous discussion of Middle

East policy issues.

While Crosses Cafe and

Grocery is best known for

that signature burger, it’s also

a gathering place of sorts,

both for local residents of

this small hamlet in south

Madison County and for the

many out-of-towners looking

for a stop along the scenic

Pig Trail from Fayetteville to

Interstate 40.

Depending on the time

of year, the store can be

populated with floaters in

swim trunks heading for the

Mulberry River, tie-dyed and

Birkenstocked music fans

stocking up on their way

to Wakarusa, motorcyclists

in black riding leathers or

hunters in camo and blaze

orange.

“For about three months

in the winter, it’s all locals.

The rest of the time, it’s

people from everywhere,” said

Hooshang “Hoosh” Nazarali,

the owner, head cook and

political guru of the Crosses

Cafe.

Nazarali, born in Iran, found

his way to Crosses in the

early 1980s. In addition to his

penchant for political banter,

his background also created

the Hooshburger’s uniqueness.

It’s a massive beef patty

• mine hit the grill with an

audible thump - handformed

and sprinkled with a secret

mix of Persian spices, then

built in traditional Americancheeseburger fashion. The home-cut fries were obviously still whole potatoes just hours earlier.

There’s also a regular, non-spiced version for the less adventurous - although if you’re not looking for adventure by the time you hit Crosses, you’ve probably made a wrong turn. In too early to crave a burger? The menu also features a full breakfast selection. Massive burger too much before a float or ride? Try a smaller sandwich in several varieties, or choose from several salads. And, if you’d rather grab ingredients on the go and make your own meal, the grocery aisle is just a few steps away.

Crosses Cafe and Grocery is modeled on the style of Old West general stores, Nazarali said, with a little bit of anything somebody might need. And that’s a good thing, because whether it’s the burger, the fan belt or even a roll of toilet paper, Hoosh’s inventory is the only choice for many miles in any direction.

So stop in, talk some politics, pick up those necessities and let Hoosh cook you up an international burger in the heart of Madison County.