Italian Family Tradition

When a married couple has celebrated anniversaries at your restaurant for the last 66 years, they’re called regulars.

When the restaurant had already been in business for almost three decades by the time that couple married, you’re a tradition.

Now managed by the fourth generation of the same family? That’s a dynasty, even by Italian standards.

Mary Maestri’s Italiano Grillroom first opened in 1923, and until 2010, they were a cornerstone of the Tontitown community. Now, the Maestri family runs things from a new Springdale location. It’s one of the bigger changes in the 89-year history of the family business.

The pasta, bread and traditional Italian desserts?

Still homemade. The recipes?

With few exceptions, true to great-grandma Mary’s originals. (Nobody’s ever considered changing the family meat sauce recipe;

neither are they willing to let the secret out to a newspaper reporter.) The bar? That’s a tribute to great-granddad Aldo, who made his own wine from local grapes.

But Mary wouldn’t recognize the lunch menu, because that’s a brand-new offering. The restaurant long offered beer as an alternative to Aldo’s wine, but a complete bar is now available. Patio seating is also new.

“We changed up a few things, and the layout is a bit different, but the important things are the same,” said J.D.

Maestri. “Overall, we have more seating but fewer private dining rooms, and the patio and bar are first-time. But, here I am, still making the bread from scratch like we’ve always done.”

Diners not in the mood forpasta can also choose from a variety of steaks, seafood or sandwiches. Those in a rush can also call ahead and pick up to-go orders curbside.

Lunch plates start under $10, and dinner runs $15 to $40 per entree. In the dinner hours, it might be J.D. answering the phone. At lunch, likely his brother Jordan.

From ravioli to tortellini, parmigiana and primavera to zucchini pomadori, Mary Maestri’s continues a family tradition. Some things have changed, but the important ones remain 89 years young.