FRONT BURNER: Don’t blame recipe for this cook’s orneriness

— It was one of those recipes I just knew I was going to love: Beef Stew With Coffee and Caramelized Onions.

Just reading the name made my mouth water.

Unfortunately, the dish didn’t live up to my expectations. But the recipe isn’t to blame.

You see, I didn’t follow the recipe.

The original recipe called for parsnips and carrots. I didn’t see the appeal of having such similar vegetables in the stew, so I decided to skip the parsnips and add some fingerling potatoes.

In my mind, this meander was going to result in an even better stew.

And I’m not alone. I frequently hear from friends and readers about how a recipe didn’t turn out they way they expected. When pressed for details, they’ll often reveal changes they made - replacing chicken broth with beef stock, a jumbo egg instead of a large egg, chicken thighs in place of pork chops, or some other seemingly innocent modification.

When we make changes, though these tweaks can result in wonderful dishes, we’re not really following a recipe. We’re creating our own recipe inspired by someone else’s.

In the case of the stew, my changes ruined what could have been a great dinner.

I added the potatoes at the same time the recipe said to add the carrots, during the last 45 minutes of cooking. But when the timer went off, the potatoes were still hard. Very hard.

So I decided to give the stew another 15 minutes. Still hard. So I cooked it 15 minutes more.

By this time the stew was overcooked - the caramelized onions had turned to a gelatinous mess and the beef was mushy - while the potatoes were still as hard as when I added them.

I suspected it was the coffee - specifically the acid in the coffee - that kept the potatoes from cooking properly. While acidic ingredients like citrus, wine, vinegar and tomatoes are often used in marinades to add flavor and tenderize meat, food scientist Shirley Corriher wrote in a Fine Cooking article that acids can actually toughen food.

So it makes sense to me that acidic ingredients used in the cooking process could have the same effect.

I’m not suggesting we stop personalizing recipes.

That would take the fun out of cooking. And honestly, with the exception of baking and candy making, I rarely follow recipes to the letter - even my own. But sometimes it’s a good idea to follow the recipe exactly. At least the first time.

When I made the stew again, I skipped the potatoes, and it was just as good as I imagined it to be.

But I still don’t see the appeal of carrots and parsnips.

Beef Stew With Coffee and Caramelized Onions

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon salt or to taste

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

2 1/2 to 3 pounds beef chuck roast, cut into 2-inch chunks

Vegetable oil

4 medium onions, sliced

1 1/2 cups cold coffee

1 cup beef stock

3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

3 to 4 sprigs fresh parsley

2 to 3 parsnips, peeled and cut into chunks, optional

1/2 pound carrots, peeled and cut into chunks

Combine the flour, salt and pepper in a large bowl, add the beef and toss to coat.

Heat enough vegetable oil to coat a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Remove beef from flour mixture, shaking off excess. Working in batches and adding more vegetable oil as needed, brown beef on all sides. Remove each piece to a plate as it browns.

In the same pot, over low heat, cook the onions in about 2 tablespoons of oil, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, about 20 minutes.

Add the coffee, beef stock and balsamic vinegar, increase heat to medium and bring to a boil. Return the meat to the pan. Add the parsley. Cover, reduce heat to low and cook for 2 hours. Remove parsley and add the parsnips (if using) and the carrots, cover, and cook 45 minutes more or until carrots are tender.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Recipe adapted from the Connecticut Post

Food, Pages 34 on 02/23/2011

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