MALE CALL Cowboy boots on list of office do-not-wears

— Q. It seems to me that some men just don't get it that there are some unusual clothing items out there in the world that may not be accepted in a business environment. I'm hoping I'm in the majority, but I fear tradition is fading. I know things change, and it does seem that despite my opinions, cowboy boots have come to be accepted in a far greater number of situations. Even Western belts and buckles are now hardly cause for raised eyebrows. Aren't there some things that a man still really should avoid?

A. I hate to disappoint those men who would like to have the same full range of flexibility in their clothing choices as women, but men really are different. The wise man is right not to deviate too much from what is traditional and thought of as classic clothes.

One of the things I've learned during my years of writing and lecturing on men's dress is that men differ from women tremendously when it comes to how they think about their clothes. Women are interested first in clothes that are a bit different so that they will stand out and be noticed and, second, in clothes that make them look attractive. Men, on the other hand, are more concerned with the possibility that their clothes might make them look foolish. For example, "clown-like" is not a word that would enter a woman's mind when she isbuying an unusual item, but it may indeed be foremost in a man's conscious thoughts as he considers a purchase. Men are more anxious to wear clothes that will make them "fit in" and feel selfconfident.

Our culture dictates some (in fact, a lot) of what men wear. It is important for men to stay within certain boundaries and within their comfort zone. Take your cowboy boots example. While they might work in some places, there are plenty of other situations where they definitely would not. In a staid office or a Wall Street firm, for example, they would call unnecessary (and uncomplimentary) attentionto the guy who is wearing them because they are too informal and inappropriate. The same is true for anything that is too trendy. Use discretion.

Depending on the setting, some other men's items that are sometimes right, but often all wrong include bolo ties, boldly colored dress shirts, the Western belts and buckles you mentioned, bright-colored socks, sneakers worn with business clothes, too many colors and patterns worn together, and any jewelry made with clear sparkly gems.

Even though women have the freedom to choose styles from all over the map, men really don't. They have it only to a limited extent. Much depends on their business and their social environments.

I know these may sound like broad generalizations, but I believe they come close to being universal truths.

Q. Being out of workfor more than a year, most of my business clothing is from my old job and is possibly slightly out of style and definitely has seen its better days. However, as you can imagine, I am not in a position to spend significant money on new interview clothing. I do have some inter views coming up and need a plan on how to stretch my best suit into more than one wearing (if I have second interviews) without looking like a 16-year-old with one suit. I can make one or two small investment purchases, but I should not go beyond that. Do you have thoughts and/or a suggestion?

A. You are thinking in the right direction. Since a major advantage of men's clothing is that it does not keep changing from year to year and going out of style,there is no need to get rid of clothes that are a few years old.

Another advantage is that "one key piece" can make a big difference. It can add personality and individuality. A man does not need to wear a conservatively cut navy suit and a red tie to be professional looking. What is known in the clothing industry as "a pop of color" goes a long way toward calling positive attention to a man's combination. Thus, wearing a fine shirt and adding a subtly colored necktie to a traditional dark suit can make a big impact.

You can get away with as few as two suits, probably one in dark gray and one in navy, plus perhaps a blazer. Check your closet and select (or buy) a couple of nice shirts for each of your suits. Find two or three ties that go perfectly with each shirt.

With these, you can create an extensive wardrobe and an up-to-date look. I once knew a man who owned a public relations firm. Many of his clients were extremely wealthy men who wore bespoke suits that were made on London's Savile Row. Realizing that he could not afford suits that would compete with his clients, he made it a habit always to wear Hermes neckties as his personal "statement."

Even though these distinctive ties were expensive, the cost did not compare withcustom-made suits. Because he knew his ties would be noticed and recognized by his clients, they gave him a feeling of self-confidence.

Besides specific clothing items, another important way to upgrade your overall image is to be meticulously groomed. A man's appearance should reflect a clean-cut image. The most obvious elements of grooming that add up to a professional appearance include a good haircut, clean and trim fingernails, shined and neatlylaced shoes with heels that are not run down, a clean pressed suit, a well-ironed shirt, and a perfectly-knotted tie - all of which are noticed and none of which will put a dent in your pocketbook.

Beyond these basics, one area of grooming that men often overlook is careful "tailoring." It is a perfect way to re-purpose what you already have in your closet. While it is not cheap to have clothing altered professionally and something that many men are stingy about spending money on, it costs far less than buying new suits to make your wardrobe look current.

These days, "current" in men's clothing tends to mean trimmer and slimmer. Since this year's basic silhouette for men's clothes is far narrower than it has been in the recent past, having your clothes "taken in" and "slimmed down" by a tailor is money well spent.Nothing is more aging and looks more frumpy and outmoded than oversize clothing. Check out a magazine or two. Then check your closet. And then check with a good tailor to see what needs overhauling. Pants legs that are too full, jackets that hang too far away from the body, sleeves that are too long, lapels that are too wide, even coats that are too long - all add up to anunattractive passe look, and can all be altered. You might like to know that in addition to prospective employers, women, too, notice and appreciate clothes that fit a man perfectly and make him look his best.

Send your questions for Male Call to: lois.[email protected]

High Profile, Pages 47 on 09/27/2009

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