LITTLE ROCK — Q. A friend told me just last week an unusual thing about a purchase he made at Jos. A. Bank. On closing the sale of a pair of trousers, the salesman asked if the customer would like a permanent crease made into the pants. Have you ever heard of this? And would you recommend it?
A. I looked into this and it is true that Jos. A. Bank offers a special treatment that they call the TravelerCrease. They apply a proprietary formulated resin (what some of their stores describe as a silicone-based solution) to the inside of the pants to maintain a permanent crease. It is very inexpensive, costing only $8 per pair.
When I questioned the company about this service, they explained that the treatment does not put a crease in, but is designed to physically hold a crease in place on wool and on cotton as well. The patented process can be used on any fabric except corduroy and on any fabric containing less that 12 percent spandex (likely, a percentage you do not want to be exceeding in any of your professional clothing).
The store applies the treatment inside the pants along the creases; it is done on-site during the alterations process, typically after fitting. Tailors in every store are trained to apply the Traveler-Crease in the amount that would be correct for each type of fabric.According to their representative, the treatment does not wash out, is guaranteed for the life of the garment, and has held up after more than 100 dry cleanings. It does not change "the hand" of the fabric; you cannot feel that it is there. The company says that customers who have had it applied often come back to have their other pants treated as well. Because it is so inexpensive, you might try it on one pair of casual pants and see how you feel about it.
A process known throughout the world as Supercrease has been around for 30 years. It is a patented permanent-creasing system used internationally in the retail apparel, dry cleaning and uniform industries. It is applied at the manufacturing level; garments with it are identified by a hangtag. Jos. A. Bank has chosen to register and market the process for their stores' clothing as TravelerCrease. Theirs is applied in the individual stores.
I should point out that this process is not at all the same thing as those old tacky stitched creases (the sort of sewn-increases that were strictly verboten in the army several years back and that would never be used on quality trousers).
As I have written about grooming and trouser creases in the past: if you regularly hang your pants up neatly, the crease will remain in place for some time. Another traveler's tip: hanging pants in a moist environment, such as a steamy shower room, is even more effective. I read somewhere that there might be a problem with pants that have a permanent crease if the dry cleaners were ever to miss the mark and accidentally press a double crease into the pants. But it would only be until the next pressing (or until you return the pants to the presser and have him redo his mistake).Since the cleaner's crease is not permanent, it could be removed. The truth is that it might actually be easier for the dry cleaner and especially for the home presser to make the correct crease when he has a good crease to follow.
As to whether I would recommend your having the treatment applied to your trousers, I'm not really sure. If you are the sort who likes a sharp crease on your pants, you might like it. On the other hand, there are those fashion snobs among us who rather relish the idea that certain natural fibers such as cotton and linen should have a bit of an upper-class rumpled look. They would probably hate noniron and permanent-press pants because they think of a natural wrinkle or two as "dignified" and appropriate.
Q. Since my promotion, I am expected to wear suits most days and sometimes a sport jacket and tie combination. When I go into department stores or men's shops, I see clothes that have a different kind of fit. Is there some overall indication that I should be looking for as a guide to which ones to choose?
A. Men who are looking to move up in the corporate world should be able to recognize the three basic silhouettes: two are total opposites - the classictraditional look and the fashionshow runway look - and the third option is a look in between the two. Check out examples of each of these shapes to choose the one that most closely suits your comfort zone and your specific corporate culture, that is, the one that fits your personality, your part of the country, and most importantly, your industry. Here are examples of each.
Classic traditional look - Although conservative, this timeless style is not a consistently single look. It ranges slightly from the most traditional full-cut styling (found in the old Brooks Brothers suits and in J. Press clothes) to the still conservative, but slightly more updated, styling (found in Paul Stuart and other fine men's specialty shops as well as in most department stores' men's departments). This general look - the one that many businessmen and most top executives wear - includes three-button and two-button single-breasted closings; it mayoccasionally be double-breasted; it may have a single back vent or English-style double back vents. While it does not have a lot of "suppression" at the waist, these days it's not quite as shapeless as the old Brooks Brothers "sack suit."
Fashion-forward runwaylook - This extremely trim silhouette does not work for a lot of men (or a lot of industries). If you were in advertising or another of "the glamour fields," it might work. The designer Thom Browne, known for this style's most exaggerated version, introduced his outrageous shrunken looks that have captured the imagination of hip young men. His way-too-short pants, far-toosnug jackets and super skinny ties resemble absurd caricatures to most people's eyes. Still, as with other precursors, he has influenced the entire industry. Most of today's men's styles - the conservative as well as the slightly more forward - are undoubtedly getting slimmer.
A stylish in-between look - This natty look is best exemplified by the new upscale Phineas Cole line at Paul Stuart and the Purple Label line from Ralph Lauren. Partially inspired by luxurious Savile Row tailoring, but with a sleeker silhouette, a shade more contemporary styling, and no small amount of attitude, it is a look designed for successful youthful men. The fabrics are elegantly traditional but the cut is a bit sharper and more up-to-the-minute. Armholes are cut higher; jackets are more shaped, shorter and closer to the body, often with peakedlapels; trim vests are part of the dapper appeal; trousers are sleeker, usually without pleats - all making the wearer appear taller, slimmer and more dashing. Nothing about this look is startling; it just appears very smart and "today." The entire approach seems fresh and relevant.
Except for successful entrepreneurs who own their businesses, it's probably wise to stay with the traditional or the almost traditional in-between cuts for daytime business attire and avoid the extreme fashionshow runway look. The man who wishes to be perceived as a smart dresser should decide on the image he wants to project and try to be consistently tasteful. On the other hand, if you are adventuresome, on the young side and in good physical shape, you might want to embrace a more forward fashion approach for your other lifestyle (nonbusiness) clothing.
To sum it up: For business, don't stray too far from the classics. But for weekend social wear, if you hanker for a bit of flamboyance and want to express more color and style, go for it. Even so, you cannot make these decisions from home. In order to weigh your options, you must venture into a store or two and check out the looks you see... and maybe even, ahem, try a few of them on.
Send your questions for Male Call to: lois.[email protected]
High Profile, Pages 46 on 08/23/2009